Witches
Point - Stone Wings Cliff

A
superb wall, overhanging in its left half with sustained routes to match, and
easier angled to the right with some delicate face routes. 1. Liassic Lark
(6c+) * jamming crack with a tough bulge. Can be greasy early in season. 2.
In Search of Bedrock (7a) * natural continuation via groove system. Sustained. 3.
Help, Help Me Rhondda (7c) * desperate, fingery sequence though short. 4.
Project 5. This God is Mine (7b+) *** classic. Sustained and fingery
via the obvious thin crackline. 6. Masada (8a) *** desperate face route,
hardest in area. 7. Stone Wings E5 6a ** superb, traditional crack
climb. 8. The Uninvited Guest (7b) ** short but very technical sequence
to gain groove. Friend 3 needed. 9. Staple Diet (7b) *** superb overhanging
groove and crack. Sustained, not over-technical. A big pump. 10. Tragic
Moustache (7a) * hard start and finish. Fine face in between. 11. Five
O'Clock Shadow (6c+) ** superb face climbing. Very technical in middle. 12.
Pelagic Mush (6a+) easiest route on crag so far. Pleasantly sustained. Not:
not marked on diagram. 13. Sideburn (6b) short hard section, easier
with long reach. Note: not marked on diagram. 14. Magic Touch (6b) *
excellent diagonal face climb. Not originally bolted! 15. Spear the Bearded
Clam (6b) new right-hand route since disappearance of block. Not on diagram.
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