| Witches Point |
Witches Point - Stone Wings Cliff
| A
superb wall, overhanging in its left half with sustained routes to match, and
easier angled to the right with some delicate face routes. 1. Liassic Lark (6c+) * jamming crack with a tough bulge. Can be greasy early in season. 2. In Search of Bedrock (7a) * natural continuation via groove system. Sustained. 3. Help, Help Me Rhondda (7c) * desperate, fingery sequence though short. 4. Project 5. This God is Mine (7b+) *** classic. Sustained and fingery via the obvious thin crackline. 6. Masada (8a) *** desperate face route, hardest in area. 7. Stone Wings E5 6a ** superb, traditional crack climb. 8. The Uninvited Guest (7b) ** short but very technical sequence to gain groove. Friend 3 needed. 9. Staple Diet (7b) *** superb overhanging groove and crack. Sustained, not over-technical. A big pump. 10. Tragic Moustache (7a) * hard start and finish. Fine face in between. 11. Five O'Clock Shadow (6c+) ** superb face climbing. Very technical in middle. 12. Pelagic Mush (6a+) easiest route on crag so far. Pleasantly sustained. Not: not marked on diagram. 13. Sideburn (6b) short hard section, easier with long reach. Note: not marked on diagram. 14. Magic Touch (6b) * excellent diagonal face climb. Not originally bolted! 15. Spear the Bearded Clam (6b) new right-hand route since disappearance of block. Not on diagram. |