Witches
Point - Croeso y Gymru Cliff

A
long section of cliff seemed with grooves and overhangs. The variety of climbing
here is very extensive with one of the best E3s in the area. The central section
of cliff can suffer from seepage into mid June. Unnamed
(5) access pitch to Tufa Terrace on left-hand side of face. 1. Croeso
Y Gymru (6c) * pleasant climbing with long reach at top. Rock 5 useful. Not
originally bolted 2. The World-v-Gibson (7a) ** a superb pitch. A technical
crux low down and sustained above. Not originally bolted 3. Straining At
The Leash (7b) * hard and reachy at the crux. Packs a punch. 4. Leave
it to The Dogs (7a+) ** magnificent sustained climbing via groove and arete.
Snappy crux. 5. There's Life in the Old Dog Yet (6c+) ** short, sharp
crux in fine position. 6. Plus Ca Change (7b) * centre of wall via
prominent flake. Long reach/desperate crux. 7. Hanging by a Thread (6c)
*** the classic of its grade in South-East Wales. Superb, sustained wall climbing.
8. Edgemoor (7b+) * short, hard and fingery crux. Bolt-on hold. 9.
Edge-Hog (7b+) *** superb arete and powerful bulge. Harder for short. Fine
positions. 10. Grow-Up! (7b+) ** mega route through centre of bulges
and roofs. Complicated lineage. 11.
Unnamed (5) easy
access pitch via slabs. |