This
fine wall, often gaining more sunshine than the rest of the quarry offers a series
of worthwhile pitches in the lower end of the sports grades. The right-hand section
of the wall can be slightly hollow but the abundance of in-situ gear renders this
problem surmountable. A good place to learn 'sports climbing'. 1.
As it Was VS 4c
short wall on left. Describes the pre-bolt ethic, hence the name and gear: hinges,
scrap metal, this one has the lot including an impressive scaffolding pole. 2.
Mitsubisho E1 5c
short wall with 2PRs 3.
Yikes (6b+) short
hard wall. Problematic and snatchy on small holds. 4.
So Uncool (6c) **
the best route on the wall. Fingery start, spotters advised, with sustained moves
above. 5. Just Hanging
Around E1 5b *
excellent traditional crackline with BB on left. Standard rack. 6.
Fluster (6a+) * first
line on the wall to the right of the crack. Slightly hollow but pleasant enough. 7.
Bluster (6b) *
similar to Fluster, though not as technical on one move. 8.
Marlin on the Wall (6b) *
fingery and technical. The 'marlin' adds a new dimension to the word protection.
Safer than a house. Unnamed
(6b) New line direct
up wall. 9. Sumo no Shiro
(6b+) another popular
route up the green streak. Sometimes a little dusty and therefore not as good
as the rest. |