The
centrepiece of the quarry providing some of the best wall pitches on sandstone. 1.
Loctite (7b) * desperate fingery climbing on the edges low down. No coming
in from the side. 2.
Land of the Dinosaurs E3 5c * almost situ-gear crack but a Friend 2 is useful.
Harder than it looks and a notable cleaning achievement in its day. 3.Momentary
Lapse of Reason 7b+ ** superb sustained climbing of the typically fingery
nature sandstone lends itself to. Finish at the last BR, not the BB. 4.
Rattle Those Tusks E3 5c * more classic-style crack climbing. Some nuts and
Friends needed. 5. Mad at the Sun (7c) *** the hardest route on sandstone
to date. And look at the date! Fingery, sustained and technical. 6.
Unnamed (6c) * shallow groove and short headwall above start of 'Sun'. 7.
Bear Running, Salmon Cunning (7a) ** right-hand side of arete to slab. Difficult
finish on the headwall. 8. Anything You Can Do (7b) ** excellent open
wall climbing. A blind and fingery crux with an airy headwall above. 9.
Encore Magnifique (7b+) *** the sandstone classic of its grade. Sustained
more than technical and maybe only 7b. But you can keep it at 7b+ for now. 10.
Another Pleasant Valley Sunday (7a+) ** typical of the wall: steep and fingery
but with an unusual crossover crux. Now started direct. |