 | South
Wall Although
short, this wall provides three difficult routes requiring an abundance of both
power and finesse combined. Can be damp in humid weather. 1.
Bristol Beat (7a+) short but powerful climbing in its length. Keep going rightwards
to the belay. 2. Screaming Neutrino's (7b+) * an even more powerful
sequence up the shallow pumping groove. Yet to be rebolted. 3. It's a Black
World (7a) * finesse at last. The clean black wall provides the intricate
route of the wall. Black is certainly beautiful. |
 | The
Back Wall Perhaps,
in many ways, this is the centrepiece of the quarry. Unfortunately, it does suffer
from a large amount of seepage in the spring months. Once dry, it provides a fine
collection of pitches on generally immaculate compact rock. The type of climbing
is unique to the area. 1.
The Quartz Bicycle (6c+) undercut flake, now gone. Needs rebolting and cleaning. 2.
You Never can Tell (7a) * technical, fingery and blind at the top. Excellent
introduction to the wall. 3. Palm Springs (7a+) ** the left-hand line
of two superb face climbs. Sustained more than technical. 4. A Million Destinies
(7a+) ** harder and even better than its left-hand twin. 'Tweeky' edge climbing
at its best. 5. Stay Hungry E5 6a the crack. Dirty and needs bolting.
6. Digitorum Brevis (7b) ** the route of the wall. Named after a one-finger-move
at one thirds height. Unthinkable |