Taffs Well North Wall
A
very fine wall that has suffered the ignominity of misuse. Compact, technical
face climbing abounds and all the routes are worthwhile. Can suffer dampness after
rain and in humidity. 1.
The Creaming Dream (6c+) * a good intro to the wall. Slabby and technical 2.
Ice Cream Sunday (7a) * very technical climbing with a stubborn finish. Hard.
Rebolted. 3.
Scream for Cream (7a+) *
thin and technical at the start, quite vicious really. Needs rebolting. 4.
Trailblazer (7b) ** in many ways the route of the wall. Sustained and technical
with a difficult rightwards finish. Rebolted. 5.
Sink or Swim (7a+) * sustained and airy climbing with a blind finish. Gold
BRs. 6. Security Plus (7b) * strenuous climbing on undercut holds. An easy start but difficult and complicated above. Rebolted. 7.
Project 8.
Norman Normal (7a) * bold
start and hard finish. Just merits a French grade, worthwhile all the same. To
be rebolted. Norman was never nothing more than normal! 9.
All's Well E4 5c * a bold and ill-frequented line to the right. A single PR
offers little in the way of meritable protection. To be rebolted. 10.
End of the Line E3 6a squeezed in onto the end of the wall. A tough crux. 11.
Taffy Duck E3 6a ** the diagonal crackline across the wall starting from All's
Well. As good as any on the wall. Mostly situ gear. Further to the right amongst the flora and fauna of the vegetated walls are three bolted lines. From left to right these are: Any Old Iron (6c), Rag and Bone (6b) and Knackers Yard (6b+). |