big brooding cliff with the easiest of access just waiting for some rejuvenation
in the form of rebolting and new route activity. The problem about this is the
effort required to do it but once achieved this will doubtless become a popular
cliff, something which it never has been!
At this moment in time there
are a number of good routes, described fully in the topo, the original ones from
Martin Crocker and more latterly an excellent pair from Gary Gibson but this undoubtedly
remains one for the future.
Whats the climbing
All of the routes give vertical or just off vertical wall climbing
with technical and sustained climbing on little edges and layaways throughout.
Some of the rock is akin to solid weetabix but the with the size of the bolts
dont let this put you off.
When should I climb
The cliff gets the sun in the afternoon which usually dries
off the majority of damp patches. Seepage lines on Wet Afternoon last until about
June but relatively speaking the cliff takes little other seepage. Due to the
busy road weekends and summer evenings are the best bet.
6c+ (1), 7a (1), 7b (1), 7b+ (2). Only 5 routes but with many more
Which are the choice routes?
pairing of Daggers (6c+ *) and Look Over Yonder (7a *) are worthwhile
and have been joined by the immaculate Wet Afternoon (7b **) to the right.
Above lie Scram (7b *) and to its left the magnificent Sugar Bullets
(7b+ **). On the latter routes dont be put off by the 5m weetabix section
at the start.