The
first three routes are situated on the lower left-hand side of the cliff where
and impressive calcite face borders the main face to the left again. 1.
Tarus Bulba (6c) ** pleasant face climbing with a tricky bulge
and following the faint rib above. 2. Bulbus Tara (4) faint
groove line above prominent tree stump. 3. Hirsuit Ulvula (6a)
short tricky arete and easy groove above. The next group of routes
begin from a grassy platform at 10m, gained by a fixed rope. 4. Jesus
Wept (6c) tricky start, then open slabby face with plenty
of interest. 5. Space Cowboys (6c+) * left-hand
line from belay gained by traverse from belay of Jesus Wept. Short hard section
low down. 6. Heavenly (7a) ** central line from
belay gives superb sustained exercise. 7.
Celestial Being (7b) ** the right-hand line gives a sustained
exercise with technical moves low down and fingery ones high up. 8..
Christendom (7a) * long sustained and finger wall with delicate
crux and easier climbing above. 10. Angel of Mons (6c) * perhaps
slightly better to the right with a low technical crux and pleasant sustained
climbing above. 11. Decimus Maximus (6b) *Again
very pleasant climbing taking a rib and groove followed by anintricate slab.The
continuation up the headwall above the belay gives: Maximus Extensicus
(6c) * the next group of routes are situated directly above
the lower walls from belays atop its left-hand routes. 12. Project 13.
Sugar Bullets (7b+) ** superb sustained climbing culminating
in an impressively situated crux with the final moves on the headwall. May be
dusty. 14. Stray Bullet (6c+) ** the direct version
of Sugar Bullets gives a superb suatined exercise 15.
Scram (7a+) ** super-sustained face climbing with no single
hard move but plenty of them. 16. New Day Today (7a) * hard
move over initial bulge then pleasant, easier face. 17. Rancho La
Cha, Cha, Cha (6c+) * arcing line with pleasant sustained
climbing. Ulrika Ka Ka Ka (6c+) * from lower
tier onto slabby upper face. |