4.
Jesus Wept (6c) tricky start, then open slabby face
with plenty of interest.
Three
route lie to the left of the top of this: Space Cowboys (6c+) * left-hand
line from belay gained by traverse from belay of Jesus Wept. Short hard section
low down. Heavenly (7a) ** central line from belay gives superb sustained
exercise. Celestial
Being (7b) ** the right-hand line gives a sustained exercise with technical
moves low down and fingery ones high up. 5. Christendom (7a) * long
sustained and finger wall with delicate crux and easier climbing above. 6.
Angel of Mons (6c+) * perhaps slightly better to the right with a low technical
crux and pleasant sustained climbing above. 7. Decimus Maximus (6b) **Again
very pleasant climbing taking a rib and groove followed by an intricate slab.
The continuation up the headwall above the belay gives: Maximus Extensicus
(6c) * the next group of routes are situated directly above the lower walls
from belays atop its left-hand routes. 8. I'm Spartacus (7b+) *** another
magnificent route taking a snaking leftwards line up the black-streaked wall.
Sustained and high in the grade with a frustrating finale. 9. Sugar Bullets
(7b+) *** superb sustained climbing culminating in an impressively situated
crux with the final moves on the headwall. May be dusty. 10. Stray Bullet
(6c+) ** the direct version of Sugar Bullets gives a superb sustained exercise 11.
Scram (7b) ** super-sustained face climbing with no single hard move but plenty
of them. 12. New Day Today (7a) * hard move over initial bulge then
pleasant, easier face. 13. Rancho La Cha, Cha, Cha (6c+) * arcing line
with pleasant sustained climbing. 14. Ulrika Ka kA kA (6c+) * from lower
tier onto slabby upper face. |