The
first three routes start at the left-hand end of the wall and shar a comon start
to a second ledge and belay (6b). 1.
Red Square (6b+) The left-hand side of the wall. Two technical
sections. 2. Organised Chaos (6c) * The centre
of the wall is well worth the effort. Sustained. 3. The Melty Man
Cometh (7a) The right-hand side of the wall with three hard
sections. All on good rock. 4.Swashbucklin'
in Brooklyn (7a) * the left-hand line via a rib and to move
leftwards to a superb and very steep finale. Half-height lower off to which it
is 6a+ 5.
LA Confidential (7a) ** Continues straight up to the left-hand
end of the overlap and ploughs on direct via superb sustained moves. 6.
The Spirit of Missouri (7a+) *** a magnificent pitch plum
central up the centre of the huge wall to the left. Sustained, low in the grade.
6b+ to half height. 70m rope. 7. Kings of New York (7a+) *** branches
right out of Spriti to climb a tricky flowstone rib and superb sustained headwall.
Low in grade. 8.
Project 9.
Minnesota Nice (7a+) *** a magnificent route taking the left
edge of the wall on positive holds after a technical start. The finish gives brilliant
climbing on grey flowstone. 10. Melting Man (7a) ** the
centre of the face. Another fine sustained exercise. 11. Ghengis
Khan (6c+) ** superb sustained face climbing after a tricky
bulge at the start. 12. Tarus Bulba (6b+) ** pleasant
face climbing with a tricky bulge and following the faint rib above. 13.
Bulbus Tara (4) faint groove line above prominent tree stump. 14.
Hirsuit Ulvula (6a) short tricky arete and easy groove above.
The next group of routes begin from a grassy platform at 10m, gained by a fixed
rope. |