The
first three routes start at the left-hand end of the wall and share a common start
to a second ledge and belay (6b). 1.
Red Square (6b+) The left-hand side of the wall. Two technical
sections. 2. Organised Chaos (6c) * The centre
of the wall is well worth the effort. Sustained. 3. The Melty Man
Cometh (7a) The right-hand side of the wall with three hard
sections. All on good rock. 4.
Ye Old Campaigner E5 6b the left-hand line via a rib and to
move leftwards to a superb and very steep finale. 5.
LA Confidential (7a) ** Continues straight up to the left-hand
end of the overlap and plows on direct via superb sustained moves. 6.
Crow Man E6 6a ** a plum central pitchup the centre of the
huge wall to the left. Sustained, 70m rope. 7. Kings of New York
(7a+) *** branches right out of Spirit to climb a tricky flowstone
rib and superb sustained headwall. Low in grade. 8.
The Connecticut Connection (7a+) *** super long pitch to right
starting from 'pit' and culminating in a brilliant and intricate headwall. 16
clips. 9.
Minnesota Nice (7a+) *** a magnificent route taking the left
edge of the wall on positive holds after a technical start. The finish gives brilliant
climbing on grey flowstone. Top bolts now removed. 10.
Melting Man (7a) ** the centre of the face. Another fine sustained
exercise. 11. Ghengis Khan (6c) ** superb sustained
face climbing after a tricky bulge at the start. 12. Tarus Bulba
(6b+) ** pleasant face climbing with a tricky bulge and following
the faint rib above. 13. Bulbus Tara (4) faint
groove line above prominent tree stump. 14. Hirsuit Ulvula (6a)
short tricky arete and easy groove above. The next group of routes
begin from a grassy platform at 10m, gained by a fixed rope. |