Taffs Well Main
Taffs Well Main Approaches
Taffs Well Main Right
Taffs Well Main Left
South Wales Limestone

Taffs Well Main (Calcite Wall)

The first three routes start at the left-hand end of the wall and shar a comon start to a second ledge and belay (6b).

1. Red Square (6b+) The left-hand side of the wall. Two technical sections.
2. Organised Chaos (6c) * The centre of the wall is well worth the effort. Sustained.
3. The Melty Man Cometh (7a) The right-hand side of the wall with three hard sections. All on good rock.

4.Swashbucklin' in Brooklyn (7a) * the left-hand line via a rib and to move leftwards to a superb and very steep finale. Half-height lower off to which it is 6a+

5. LA Confidential (7a) ** Continues straight up to the left-hand end of the overlap and ploughs on direct via superb sustained moves.
6. The Spirit of Missouri (7a+) *** a magnificent pitch plum central up the centre of the huge wall to the left. Sustained, low in the grade. 6b+ to half height. 70m rope.
7. Kings of New York (7a+) *** branches right out of Spriti to climb a tricky flowstone rib and superb sustained headwall. Low in grade.

8. Project

9. Minnesota Nice (7a+) *** a magnificent route taking the left edge of the wall on positive holds after a technical start. The finish gives brilliant climbing on grey flowstone.
10. Melting Man (7a) ** the centre of the face. Another fine sustained exercise.
11. Ghengis Khan (6c+) ** superb sustained face climbing after a tricky bulge at the start.
12. Tarus Bulba (6b+) ** pleasant face climbing with a tricky bulge and following the faint rib above.
13. Bulbus Tara (4) faint groove line above prominent tree stump.
14. Hirsuit Ulvula (6a) short tricky arete and easy groove above. The next group of routes begin from a grassy platform at 10m, gained by a fixed rope.