The Routes
Due to its complicated walls and amounts of trees across the quarry floor, it has been necessary to draw the cliff from an aerial perspective. Although this may appear complicated at first, it should prove very easy to follow.

1. Beef Tasting Strawberries (6a+) short slab, one hard move. Yet to be bolted. 2. The Old Firm (6c) centre of rib/pillar. Yet to be bolted.

3. Coggars Lane (6b) pillar with overlap. Yet to be bolted. 4. Outspan (7a+) ** left side of steeper wall. Fingery and bold at start.

5. Ripe 'n Ready (7b+) * desperate, for small, right-hand line.

6. Pastis on Ice (7a+) ** the left arete of the next orange wall slightly forward of Outspan. Direct start at same grade but better.

7. Cointreau (7a+) *** the right-hand side of the wall provides one of the classic sandstone pitches of the area. Pockets and edges provide the holds, connecting
them the difficulties.

8. The Cut E2 5c thin crack from ledges high on right 9. Blacker than Black Wall (6c) desperate problem to right. Jump onto last BR for lower-off.

The next series of routes take a system of lower-level walls in front and to the right of Cointreau.

10. Branch Manager (6c) typical of the walls, an extended boulder problem. 11. Totally Stumped (6c) desperate moves via vague scoop.

12. Molybdenum Man (6c) * The excellent little arete.13. Ferndale Revisited (7b) * desperate bouldering from bottom to top.

14. Dusk (7a) * marginally easier than its left-hand neighbour, but getting harder as holds disappear. Now stable at this grade, for now!

15. I Came (6a+) * at last something easier angled. The left-hand side of the slab and the short headwall, 16. He Sawed (5) the short, easier slab to the right.

17. I Conkered (6a+) first bolted line right of the chimney. 18. Bring Back the Birch (5) single hard move past a BR.

19. Under the Axe (6b) blunt rib and sharp vee groove. 20. No Barking up this Tree (5) single hard move past BR.

21. A Sight for Saw Eyes (6a+) dynamic start on side wall of corner. 22. Tragedy E1 5a * splendid unprotected arete to right. There is a BB.

23. The Future Holds (7b) ** a complicated sequence with a trying finish.

24. Narcissi E1 5b * along and very pleasant route taking the blunt rib of the obvious slab via a shallow groove high up. A single PR shows the way but it would benefit from more gear.

25. Rising Sap (6a) ** a future sandstone classic at the grade and a very long pitch. It climbs the slab to the right of Narcissi, always keeping to the line of BRs until a finish is made up the obvious flying arete.

The walls now fizzle out for about 50m. There is no worthwhile climbingon this section of cliff until a sharp arete is passed. Just right of this is a fine, right-facing wall with two lines starting at the same point:

26. No Chips Round Here (7b) ** the steep wall just left of a thin crack, then move rightwards and finish direct on good holds. The original route, A Clip Round the Ear (7a+) * finished leftwards.

27. Homebase E1 5b the obvious shallow arete twixt vegetation.

To the right lies the Sport For All Wall, divided on its left-hand side by a small ledge.

28. Slap Happy (6c+) the leftwards-trending crack. Step right to the BB. 29. Sport for All (7b+) * the very thin 'blank' face to the right.

30. Sporting Supplement (6b) * afine little pitch up the shallow scoop. 31. Sunday Sport E3 5c the flake line with a PR.

32. The Abdominal Showman (6c) the flake line just left of the corner.

33. A Certain Peace (6b) * low level wall and arete. 34. Misadventure (7a) ** superb wall climbing to the right.

35. Jetlagged E4 6a * traditional diagonal crackline.

36. The Theory and Practice of Glue Sniffing (6c+) Starts just left of corner, then left-hand line from 2nd BR.

37. Far Cry from Squamish (6c+) * direct line left of corner. 38. Sennapod Corner HVS 5a

39. Whiter than White Wall (7a+) ** first line right of corner with one hard move. 40. A Load of Rubbish E2 5b * first series of cracks.

41. Valleys Initiative (7a) *** the best in the quarry. Face climbing with a crux finish. 42. Ain't as Efficial E3 5c second last crackline proves a little dirty.

43. The Entrepreneur HVS 5a final crackline with a mossy start.