It is very difficult to sum up the importance of this quarry in relation to the remainder of sandstone cliffs. Very easy access; Over 85 sports routes; Six impressive sections of crag; Routes varying in height from 10m to 50m and in three pitches; Grades in a very broad range from 6a right through to 7c and currently the hardest route on sandstone: If that doesn’t sum it up nothing can.
To
find the quarry locate Caerphilly and take the A469 heading for Bargoed and take
the first left at the second roundabout, the one after the Travel Inn, for Llanbradach.
In 400m a small quarry track leads off left (careful parking in the village ahead)
under a railway bridge and then left into the lower tier. For the upper tier skirt
the right or left-hand edge of the quarry and traverse across to a wide terrace
leading under the wall.
What’s the climbing like?
There are loads of styles to choose from: The Luxury Walls provide
vertical wall climbing: The Sinister Walls are desperately overhanging and provide
some brilliant little pitches: The Cascade area provides more vertical wall climbing
as a prelude to the long pitches above: The Western Walls provide a few titbits:
The Upper Tier is very extensive and provides lots of good climbing.
When should I go there?
Most of the crag dries quickly,
particularly the Upper Tier, and takes little seepage. Its a great spring venue
and the lower tier walls are all worth sampling. Most of the crag gets little
sunshine except for the Luxury and Sinister Walls which have sun until about 1pm.
Humid weather can bring the problem of midges but the biggest problem here can
be the local kids who have been know to walk off with your equipment.