To find the quarry locate Caerphilly and take the A469 heading for Bargoed and take the first left at the second roundabout, the one after the Travel Inn, for Llanbradach. In 400m a small quarry track leads off left (careful parking in the village ahead) under a railway bridge and then left into the lower tier. For the upper tier skirt the right or left-hand edge of the quarry and traverse across to a wide terrace leading under the wall.

What’s the climbing like?
There are loads of styles to choose from: The Luxury Walls provide vertical wall climbing: The Sinister Walls are desperately overhanging and provide some brilliant little pitches: The Cascade area provides more vertical wall climbing as a prelude to the long pitches above: The Western Walls provide a few titbits: The Upper Tier is very extensive and provides lots of good climbing.

When should I go there?
Most of the crag dries quickly, particularly the Upper Tier, and takes little seepage. Its a great spring venue and the lower tier walls are all worth sampling. Most of the crag gets little sunshine except for the Luxury and Sinister Walls which have sun until about 1pm. Humid weather can bring the problem of midges but the biggest problem here can be the local kids who have been know to walk off with your equipment.

Route up-date:
Hush Money rebolted and climbed direct at 7a+: Contraband rebolted to provide the hardest route on sandstone at 7c ***: Boston Strangler rebolted at 7a+: Once Bitten rebolted at 6b *: Hollow Feeling rebolted at 6b*: You Change me rebolted at 6c+**: Torch the Earth rebolted at 7b **: Dirty as a Dog rebolted at 6b*: Desert Storm rebolted at 7a+ ***: Twenty Second Chance rebolted at 7a+ *: Sixty Second Go See rebolted at 7a *: The Roaring Forties rebolted at 6b+ *: Between the Lines rebolted at 6b+ *: Saboo rebolted at 6c: Blinded by Love retrobolted at 6c+ **: Aptitude Test rebolted at 7a *: You Are What You Is rebolted at 6c **: The Caerphilly Contract rebolted at 7b+ ***: Little White Lies rebolted at 7a **: Slip Into Something Sexy rebolted at 7a+ **: Slipping Into Luxury rebolted at 6b *.

Grades:
6a (2), 6a+ (1), 6b (15), 6b+ (9), 6c (12), 6c+ (7), 7a (12), 7a+ (10), 7b (1), 7b+ (2), 7c (1). A massive 85 routes in total and still increasing.

Which are the choice routes?
Where to start, just buy the topo: Just as a taster try the following: Dreaming in Colour (7a**) and Abattoir and Costello (7b+ ***) on the Sinister Walls: Slip into Something Sexy (7a+ **) on the Luxury Walls: Simple Addition (6c** ) and Cascade (6c+ *) on the Cascade Area: The Caerphilly Contract (7b+ ***) and Grit Box (7a+ ***) photo on the Expansionist Walls: Nappy Rush (6b **), Desert Storm (7a+ ***), Blinded By Love (6c+ **) and I Am What I Am (6b **) but don’t discount the rest!