1.
Academy Awards (6c) *
fine face after a meaty start over the low-level roof - can be avoided from the
terrace above by coming in from the right, BB. The groove above is the real crux.
2. Dream Academy (6c) ** a classic slab and face climb, well worth
doing. Two technical cruxes, one at half-height the other right at the end of
the pitch. 3. El Camino Del Roy (6c+) * another very worthwhile pitch
via the obvious sharp, in more ways than one, groove. Much harder than it looks.
4. Danny La Rue (7a+) a squeezed in pitch, not without interest. Sustained
climbing, no real crux, but a few fragile holds remain. 5. Incidentally
X (7b) ** a much changed route since the demise of a large flake. Superb climbing
with a particularly trying crux rock-over. Other alternatives have yet to be found.
6. Tortilla Flats (7b) ** a superb addition over very unlikely terrain
left of the cave. Sustained with good holds. Lower off the last BR because the
finish remains fragile. 7. Pour Marcel (7b) ** fine, sustained climbing
right of the cave with a dynamic or powerful crux according to taste. 8.
Brazilian Blend (6c+) ** another excellent route, the best right of the cave.
Sustained, pleasantly technical and with an airy crux. 9. Sverige (7a)
* slightly straightened out from the original line. Two very technical sections
with a good rest in between. 10. Ma's Strict (7a+) * direct line through
overlaps. Surprisingly difficult. Long reaches help as do strong fingers and a
sense of direction! 11. Breakout (6c) * a fine upper section after
an easy start. The difficulties are nowhere excessive if you can pick your way
amongst the ivy strands. 12. Vitamin Z (7a) the start of Breakout takes
you higher to this more technical offering. Yet to be re-re-stripped of ivy and
rebolted. |