Dinas
Rock - Roadside Crag

1.
Fromage Frais (5)
pleasant warm up on left side of wall. Rebolted 2.
Rob Roy (7a+) * left-hand line on first wall. Fingery to start. Rebolted 3.
Cheesy Rider (6c) * right-hand line. Short hard section from ledge.Rebolted Creme
de Roquefort (6b+) steep wall right of Cheesy Rider. On the short wall
to the right lie two routes: Scraping the Barrel (5+) and Tapping
the Keg (6c) 4. Pinheads (6c) left-hand side of the wall gets a
fluttery sign. 5. Skin Ed (7c) ** leftwards line up blackened wall.
Technical and fingery. Rebolted 6. The Inflated
Roundhead (7a) * excellent face with hard central section. 7. Charlie's
Rusks (6b+) * pleasant wall with hard start. Rebolted 8.
The Deflated Dickhead (6b) * good direct line with short crux.Rebolted Pot
Head (5) * pleasant face and slabs to right and just behind tree. 9.
Confounded Dunderhead (6b) hard start, a little scrappy above.Rebolted Smeg
Head (4) LH line on pleasant 'waved' wall. Bone Head (4) central line.
Unnamed (4) RH line 10. Connect One (6a) short bulge. Finish
rightwards from last BR. 11. South-West Guru (6b) hard move over bulge,
some say English 6a. 12.
Deadly Nightshade (6c) * compact, technical face. Good. 13. Screaming
Lampshades (6c+) hard boulder problem. Left to belay. 14. Big Ears
Goes Flying (6b+) exit direct via left side of undercut. 15. The Wake
(6b) * direct through undercut onto slab. 16. Bob's Birthday Party
(6b) * face just right of ground-level hole. 17. Cujo (6c) * easy
start then smooth face above flake. 18. Thinner (7a) thin crack and
face on left. 19. The Running Man (7a) * technical, slabby face after
thin crack. 20. Miss Alto (6b) * pleasant slab and steep finish right
of flake. 21. The Regulators (7c) ** the arete. A short power-packed
pitch. Airy finish. 22. The De-Regulators (7a+) ** wall on left after
the crux of Beware of Poachers. An excellent route, the best hereabouts.
23.
Beware of Poachers (6c+) direct via roof and technical move to flake. Avoiding
the crux on the right brings it down to 6b+. 24. Open Roads (6b+) slab
and short wall. Direct through roof for crux. 25. Squash the Squadie (6b+)
* pleasant face starting via thin crack. 26. Thousand Yard Stare (6c)
* pleasant sustained face. 27. Pugsley (7a) * short, sharp crux
low down. 28. Munsterosity (7a+) surprisingly hard low down. 29.
Morticia (6c+) Final route on ochre-flecked wall. Well there was some charge
left in the battery!
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