Dinas
Rock - Main Cliff

1.
Spore Wars (8a) ***
Brilliant, sustained climbing in two parts. BA to surmount roof at 7c or free
at the above. Good rest at half-height. H1N1 8a
* Climbs Bloody
Spore Climbers over roof and then direct up overhanging wall to right edge of
slab, from jug on slab move right into Subversive Body pumping to finish. 2.
Subversive Body Pumping (7b+) ** Hideous entry into groove, English 6c - leads
to a superb crack and an airy rightwards exit. 3. Powers That Be (7c) **
Rightwards line from just above crux of Subversive into Berlin, then onto Still
Life for its finish. 4. Dinasty (8a) *** pulls the desperate lower overhangs
to a respite on the slab with an impressive finale up the leaning wall above' 5.
Berlin (7a+) *** A modern classic with sustained technical interest throughout.
Bouldery at the start. It is possible to take the right-hand finish from the top
BR and finish over the overlaps on the right as for Still Life/Powers that Be
at 7b. 3.
Hayabusa 7c+ ** Once on the slab above the first overlap on Berlin, head up
and left crossing Powers that be to finish via the upper part of Dinasty. 6.
Still Life (7b+) *** Technical wizardry throughout. Move right out of Berlin
to gain the left-hand side of the obvious arete. The bulge above gives a fitting
climax. 7. Angel Heart E6 6c * The original way onto the arete had an
aid point but has since been freed. Desperate and very sporting, hence grade. 8.
Outta Time (7c+) ** gains the face as for Chives but climbs the left
arete of the Big Time Groove to join Chives for the finale. Eliminatish but good. 9.
Big Time E6 6c ** The long slim corner with a desperate entry. The groove
is bold (RPs) and the direct finish over the roof is entertaining to say the least. 10.
Crock of Gold 7c+ *** A pumpy/dynamic roof is combined with a hideously thin
slab - get those very sticky boots out or peddle for Wales 11. The Sharp
Cereal Professor (7b) *** A recently concocted series of problems incorporating
Salem's Lot. A powerful and dynamic roof is coupled with a superb and intricate
face above. Take care with rope drag. 12. Muchas Maracas (7c) ** from
below the second roof on Sharp Cereal professor, undercuts right across Harlem
to join Hawaiian Chance and pull the overhang to a new belay. 13.
Harlem (7b+) *** A magnificent varied route with all the hallmarks of a great
climb: power, a sustained nature and technicalities. 14. Hawaiian Chance
(7b+) ** A direct eliminate via Spain. A strenuous roof and desperate move
left out of Spain. The bolt does not affect Spain despite misguided comments from
some. 15. Spain E4 6a *** A traditional hard classic twixt grooves,
overlaps and slabs. Plenty of technical moves, a thuggish pull and numerous TRs
for good measure. 16. Groovy Tube Day E2 5c *** Another classic branching
off right from Spain into the tube. Quite strenuous low down and technical to
gain the tube. Abseil off from TB above. 17. Dr Van Steiner 7a+ A worthwhile
selection of problems with a few rubbish holds thrown in for good measure. Spooky. 18.
Venice 7a short thuggy roof. Not yet bolted. |