Coed Ely Topo
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Coed Ely

This small quarry, situated only five miles from the M4, gives a number of worthwhile routes on a compact area of wall. Its size makes it very useful for an evening or short day visit. Three of its routes, all at E4, are of particular merit. Whilst its graffiti-ridden walls can be a little off-putting, the wall catches any sun that's going and the place dries very quickly after rain.
The only off-putting feature is the cliffs lack of lower-off points, although a series of stakes adorn the cliff edge. An extra rope draped over the cliff edge may therefore prove of use.

Approaches:

From junction 34 of the M4, take the A4119 through Llantrisant towards Tonyrefail. In approximately 5 miles, and at the fourth roundabout since leaving the motorway, the quarry can be clearly seen on the hillside above. Just beyond the roundabout lies the tiny village of Coed Ely.
After leaving the roundabout, take the first turning right upon entering the village and park at the end of the road. From the end of the road climb carefully over the fence from where a small track leads rightwards to the quarry.

Access:

Whilst only likely to prove a minor problem, the farmer who owns the land containing the quarry has been known to show some adverse reaction to people on his land recently. This has led to a couple of climbers being asked to leave but this was quite some time ago - this may be due to the rather troublesome children in the area. If asked to leave please do so courteously.

Five Day Forecast for this crag

If you would like to donate or contribute to the bolting fund which helps replace worn out gear and prepare new crags as in the case of Masson Lees, please contact Gary Gibson at the e-mail address below or send cheques to Gary Gibson, Keristone, Carr Bank, Oakamoor, Stoke-on-Trent, Staffs. ST10 3DG
Gary@sportsclimbs.co.uk