
1.
Boobs (8a) ** the
first of a series of impressive routes on the huge flat wall with a very hard
sequence of moves for almost its entire length and eventually joining the next
route for its finale. 2.
Boo (7c+) ** another
fine technical pitch pitch with relatively straightforward climbing to just above
the second BR and then an intense sequence trending slightly leftwards to reach
a better series of holds at its exit. 3.
Tequila Mockingbird E6 6c *** a
truly significant route which epitomizes the era of its creation and which to
this date still remains the first ascencionist's favorite route. The centre of
the wall has changed a little since its creation, some holds having come off at
the start, but it still remains a true milestone in the history of Peak limestone
climbing. The situ gear is also back to 2BRs and 2PRs to provide a mind numbing
and fingery experiece. Some say 7c if the first BR is pre-clipped but you need
a ruddy big stick. 4.
Basic Channel (8a) * another
very fingery, almost sport route on the fragile walls to the right. The route
can be done as a sports route by lowering it is possible to lower off twin bolts
three quarters of the way up the route but for the full tick finish via Eyes of
Fire where some small wires will be needed. 5.
The Freedom Trap E5 6a * a
sadly overlooked pitch on the upper walls via a technical wall and flake past
3PRs. 6. Eyes of Fire
E6 6c * the final
route of the quintet on this magnificent wall. Although it was bolted after its
inception as a trad. route (graded at about 7b+), this route has reverted to its
original state to provide a difficult proposition. Not to be underestimated. Start
just to the left of Mortlock's Arete and climb the left-hand crackline to join
that route. Now traverse strenuously leftwards onto the face and just before you
meet Tequila Mockinbird, climb straight up via a series of short-lived but very
fingery moves. 7. Mortlock's
Arete E4 6a, 6a *** one
of the great classics when first free-climbed in the late 70s. The line takes
the striking thin crack in the prominent rounded arete and gives sustained climbing
with two cruxes on the first pitch and a boulder problem on the second. 1.
25m climb the right-hand of two cracklines, the one that reaches down to the
ground, and at its top make a difficult pull leftwards into the main crackline.
Follow this with particular difficulties where it bulges to gain easier ground
and a tree belay above. 2. 15m the prominent groove above is gained via
a trying move over the bulge and eases rapidly. 8.
The Golden Mile E5 6b *** another
classic pitch, one of the finest in the area at the grade, taking the gleaming
white wall to the right of the arete. High in its grade and requiring tenacious
route finding. Climb the shallow groove in the centre of the wall and exit rightwards
to a resting place. Swing diagonally back leftwards and up to a good thread, usually
in place, with the hands on the base of the small white ledge. Gain a standing
position on this by using holds on the right and a reasonable rest on the left.
Swing up and right to a flake using a naughty hold and sprint up to the break.
Swing left to belay. 9.
Apocalypse E4 6a, 5c *** the
classics keep coming. The reputation of this routes top pitch and its 'self-removing'
wires in legend. Just look back down when you are almost at the top of the pitch.
The initial pitch does, however, provide its technical crux. 1. 22m Climb
the large open corner to reach a belay in the break almost immediately after its
crux section. Awkward belay. 2. 18m. Swing left and then up and over the
bulge into the obvious hanging flake/groove. Follow this, all quite intimidating
but actually quite straightforward when you get on and do it, until a swing left
along the top break gives access to the finishing groove of Mortlock's Arete and
subsequent relief. 10.
Suddenly E5 6b an
unfortunately overlooked pitch with a good upper section which may need recleaning.
Climb the technical wall right of the main angle of the bay to reach a prominent
crack (Alfresco) Step up and then left onto a tufa pillar and follow this, PR,
to the break. 11. Alfresco
HVS 5b, 5b One
of the original ways up the face. 1. 25m From part way up the main corner
of Apocalypse, swing right into a prominent crack and follow this, awkward at
first, to reach the break. 2. 16m Move left until above the main corner
and pull awkwardly over the overlap into a decaying groove. The finish of the
next route is a marginally better alternative. 12.
One Night E1 5b Pull
directly over the bulge from the stance of Alfresco into a pleasantly exposed
and easier shallow groove. |