
1.
Shake Hands with the Octopus E5 6c a
somewhat neglected route with an intense series of moves low down and a tricky
finale. 2. White Gold
E5 6a ** an old
classic line in need of a revamp since the old fixed gear is in need of replacement.
The line, which can be done direct at a slightly harder grade, climbs a shallow
groove exiting left and up to the upper break. Swinging right here gains the prominent
finishing flake and groove. 3.
Nobody's hero E5 6b * again
very worthwhile but a little untouched in the past decade. It moves right out
of White Gold relatively low down before climbing the technical wall and upper
bulges. Again the situ threads may be in need of replacement. 4.
The Myrmidon E5 6b ** a
very technical effort, especially at the second crux which is particularly hard
to flash. Climb the thin crack, TR by a tricky rockover to a respite at the break.
Swing left, drilled PR, and up via a shallow scoop into the trees. 5.
The Ogre (8a) ** the
red-flecked side wall gives a hard technical pitch on which the BRs don't seem
enough and for the short a bit of a long stretch. The climbing is always technical
and fingery, takes a slightly leftwards line and is harder for the short. 6.
Puppets E1 5b a
direct line right of the vague arete via a couple of old TRs leads steeply but
on good holds to a vegetated ledge. Finish by climbing first leftwards and then
back right. 7. Two Sunspots
E2 5c ** this route
has developed into something of a classic and provides fine wall climbing with
a short difficult section in its centre. Follow a vague flake line to reach a
shallow scoop and respite. Make a few tricky moves leftwards onto a good flake
hold and climb the obvious crack to the capping bulges. Take care here stepping
left and then rightwards through them. 8.
Midnight Summer Dream E5 6a *** a
very fine route, thought by some to be one of the best of its type on the crag.
Sustained interest throughout with good gear but steel feeling a little urgent.
Low in the grade. Climb a hollow lower wall to reach the prominent leftwards-trending
crackline. At the top of this, BR, step slightly left and pull awkwardly over
a bulge onto a thin flakeline, TRs. Follow this to reach the capping bulges where
moves left to join Two Sunspots give an exit rightwards through them. 9.
Midnight at the Oasis E6 6b slightly
eliminatish but technical face and spooky climbing makes it worthwhile. Follow
Midnight Summer Dream to its BR, then climb carefully rightwards, all a bit insecure,
to reach a PR a precarious way above. Continue direct to finish. 10.
Sergeyenna E1 5b ** the
classic of the wall with sustained interest and generally good protection throughout.
Climb the next thin crack system to the right and continue via the fine wall past
an old BR, if its still in, to reach the overlaps. Traverse rightward under these
to the end and make a precarious move up to better holds in a groove and a finish
into the trees. 11.
Heart of Darkness E3 5c * takes
a line through Sergeyenna to give a worthy pitch. Climb up onto a pinnacle and
step left before climbing up into and out of a scoop to reach the traverse of
Sergeyenna. Move left and make a strenuous series of moves through the roof to
reach the top. 12. Hergiani
E2 5c * One of
the older routes which when it was freed now gives a series of fingery moves all
in a short space of rock. Climb up onto the pinnacle via a shallow groove on its
right-hand side, then step right and make a couple of fingery pulls up into a
shallow groove system. Continue up these into the trees. 13.
Absent Friends E3 5c ** the
quality routes keep arriving. Fine, sustained wall climbing. Climb the wall 5m
right of the start of Hergiani to reach a series of thin flakes. Step left under
a slight bulge and pull through its left-hand side somewhat urgently to gain better
holds and a ledge above. Continue straight up more easily to reach a small tree
at the prominent break. 14.
Nostradamus E1 5b * a
faint curving groove which is now becoming choked with dandelions marks the line.
Climb the lower wall below this and make a tricky move into the groove past a
large PR. Climb the shallow groove, with the occasional tricky move, to the break.
Slightly to the left lies a bolt belay. 15.
Rave On E3 5c ** the
prominent rightwards trending flake marks the right-hand side of this section
of this wall and gives a strenuous pitch. Climb up just right of Nostradamus and
swing right into the flake line. Follow this with a strenuous exit onto easier
but slightly vegetated ground. Amble up this to the break and bolt belay to the
left. A direct start provides scary entertainment at E4 5c. |