
1.
Match of the Day E2 5c * a
fingery pitch up the centre of the rounded buttress. Climb the wall moving slightly
rightwards to gain a short flake. Climb this with difficulty, then continue more
easily via a larger flake to the terrace. 2.
Goal of the Month E2 5c * another
fingery pitch straight up the wall 3m to the right past two thread runners and
a series of tricky moves. 3.
The Chopper VS 5a * one of
the original routes of the face. Climb the thin polished crack left of the prominent
flake groove with a few hard moves to exit the crack proper. Step and climb the
easier flake system to the girdle break. 4.
Sleepwalkers HVS 5a this
route takes the flakey, left-facing groove immediately right of the Chopper directly
to the break. Becoming vegetated. 5.
Pleasant Dreams HVS 5b from
5m up Sleepwalkers, move right above the lower overlap, PR, and up onto the face
- tricky. Finish via the shallow groove above. 6.
Rape E2 5b * a super little
route on very compact rock. Move leftwards across the lower wall to reach a thin,
slightly rightwards trending crack. Follow this via a tricky bulge to easier ground.
This leads to the break. 7.Grapple
and Grope E5 6a moves
left from 5m up Gulle Gulle Groove to climb the bold wall and shallow groove above. 8.
Gulle Gulle Groove VS 4c * enjoyable
climbing up the clean shallow groove to the right. 9.
Flycatcher E1 5b * From 5m
right again, climb the wall behind the prominent tree to reach a flake, then move
slightly left and up to the base of a wall/nose. Now climb rightwards to finish
via a crack to gain the rake. 10.
Snap Dragon E5 6b *a tough
little cookie, with difficult to place protection. An excellent test-piece. From
the flake on Flycatcher, move and slightly left to a thread runner. Continue slightly
left up the wall above with a series of 'slaps' to gain holds a long way above. 11.
Leering Wall HVS 5b ** a
fine little route. Climb up to the prominent overlap to the right and make a series
of difficult moves rightwards through it to gain a standing position on a good
hold. Finish more easily via the open scoop above. 12.
Dagenham Dave E1 5b again
worthwhile. Climb the wall 5m to the right, just left of an easier line of holds,
and cross a slight bulge leftwards to a ledge. Step left again and climb a shallow
groove to gain the girdle break. 13.
Clive's Route VS 4c the easier
line of holds just to the right finishing slightly rightwards via a scoop to reach
trees. 14.
Switch E2 6a the wall just
right past a faded thread runner. 15.
Changeling E4 6a a short
difficult route to the right via a slight depression. The finish slightly to the
right is vegetated. 16.
Doggone Groove VS 4b the
obvious flaky groove at the right-hand side of the crag. Most used as access to
the girdle. 17.
What Aches E3 5c bold climbing
via the vague rib 3m to the right of Doggone Groove. |