Situation Turkey
Dip is the most northerly of the Matlock area crags, tucked away above a small
lake stocked with carp. It is situated close to Darley Bridge near Matlock in
a nice secluded spot surrounded by extensive woodland, where sightings of deer
are not unusual. Character The
extremely steep 45° plus overhanging nature of the crag makes climbing possible
in even the heaviest rain. Unfortunately after prolonged wet weather it does suffer
from seepage, but not all the routes are affected by this. The crag gets some
sun in the late afternoon but stays cool in hot weather.
Climbing For
climbers operating at 7b and above, Turkey Dip offers some memorable climbing.
Taking unrelentingly steep terrain, power endurance is well tested on these routes.
Heel and toe hooks provide a substitute for a third hand in places. Removing gear
is fun, as the lower-offs finish an impressive distance away from the base of
the routes. A clip-stick and bouldering mat (for warm-ups) would be useful.
Approach If
travelling by car, parking is available by Darley Bridge itself, or on the road
to Wensley, just beyond the 'Three Stags Head' pub. Take the road signposted to
'H.J. Enthoven' and Stanton Lees and follow this for 150m, until you get to the
third gate on your left. Go over the style into the wood and follow the track,
which can be muddy in prolonged wet weather. After 200m branch left around the
lake and, almost immediately, cross a small wooden bridge over the stream. The
crag overlooks the lake, just up on the right.
Access NB
The crag is on land owned by H.J. Enthoven and there is no right to climb here.
To avoid problems, please make as little impact on the local environment as possible.
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