The Cornice - River Sector

1. That Was the River (7b+) ** superb pumpy rightwards line slowly easing. 2. Streamline (7c+) * eliminate with desperate start. 3. This is the Sea (7c+) * another series of desperate moves onto a shallow edge. 4. Old Man River (7b) ** superb route with fingery moves and exiting leftwards. Direct finish is 7b+. 5. The Naive and Sentimental Lover (7b+) ** fine fingery wall climb after a left exit out of: 6. Up the River Without a Paddle (6c+) *** the classic warm-up. Magnificent climbing when dry. 7. Snails of the Riverbank (7b) ** another fine climb with two hard overlaps and a fingery wall. 8. The Spiders from Mars (6b+) old route now cleaned and free climbed. 9. The Monday Club (7a) two overlaps and a fine clean headwall. 10. Trampled Underfoot (6c+) * better right-hand variant finishing via thin crack. 11. Gardener's Question Time (7a) hard wall to overlap, then easier. 12. Rue Morgue E3 5c * old traditional route almost a sports route now. 13. After the Goldfish (7b) * desperate fingery moves. A long reach through the overlap. 14. Crowd Control (7c) * steady to roof, then a sea of roundedness above. 15. Une Crime Passionnel E4 6a *** classic stuff via a hard wall, left-facing groove and crack. Small wires needed at top. 16. Fey E4 5c ** old classic, superb when clean. Needs a new PR. 17. War Memorial (6c) * recently rebolted and gives fine climbing. Friend 3 for top flake. 18. Succubus (7b) ** fingery and hard moves through overlap. 19. Shazam E4 6a * thin crack, bulge and rightwards exit from groove. Fine when clean. 20. Martial Music (7a+) ** again rebolted. Fine wall climbing and hard overlap. 21. Clarion Call (6c+) *** the classic route of the 80s gives a smooth start and sustained climbing above. |