Situation:

This crag is situated on the hillside high above Matlock. Its secluded nature and isolation gives a tranquil calm not associated with many of the quarries in the area.

Character:

A truly incredible find with an extremely impressive leaning wall laced with loads of steep routes in the high 6 and low 7 grades. Its north-facing nature provides a welcome respite from any summer heat although it can take until May to dry out. The South facing wall, although less impressive, does provide a number o

f easier slabby routes.

Approaches:

This is relatively straightforward although a tad awkward because of the narrow roads. When travelling down the A6 from Bakewell, turn right at the new roundabout in Matlock and turn right again just before Sainsbury's. Turn immediately right before the petrol station and up the new road. Take the first left, awkward, and go down the hill taking the first right, Salter's Lane, which is difficult to see. Follow this lane around a sharp right-hand bend for approximately 1 mile and park at the entrance to the third dirt track on the left, a very broad entrance. DO NOT PARK AT THE HEAD OF THE TRACK BUT ON SALTERS LANE. Walk up the track and straight over the style by the gate. Follow the track up the hillside, branching off to the left and keeping left of a set of low level trees, and then slightly downhill to a gate in the far left-hand corner of the field. Hop over this and the quarry will be seen over to the right.

Quarry Layout:

The quarry is striking in profile with a long leaning wall on its right-hand side extending almost to the cave at the far end of the quarry. This wall is divided into three sections by a prominent arete at the end of a white clacite wall and a slim corner line in the centre of the black face in the distance.

The left-hand wall is more broken but consists of two good sections of wall. The first section gives slabby climbing with a prominent break at two-thirds height. The second wall clearly red in colour and laced with galena and calcite lies a little further on.