The
left-hand side of the wall can be climbed from 'ground' level. The routes on the
right-hand side of the face are accessed by an in-situ rope. 1.
Mrs. Jackson's Warning (6c) Step up to the prominent break and pull up to
a ledge. Stretch up and left to good finishing holds. 2. The Orcadian Donkey's
Spotted Tail (6c+) * Swing along the break to a large hold, and reach up leftwards
to pull into a small recess. Great moves lead to bigger hold and a tricky finish. 3.
Tatanka Yotanka (7a+) * From the large hold continue all the way along the
break to finish below Exit Wounds. 4. Depravity (7c) * From the good
hold on ODST traverse on rightwards on a gradually rising line to reach the Rinsemeal
lower-off. 5. Mosey On Down The Crow Road (8a) ** Step onto the wall
and move up on minimal holds to make either a long reach, or dynamic crossover
to a large layaway hold up to the left. After controlling the swing, pull up to
the break and traverse to the large hold. Move up into the recess, make difficult
moves round the bulge and climb the wall above, moving slightly rightwards at
the top. 6. Project 7. Ruby Fruit Jungle (8a) ** Delicate
and reachy moves lead to the break, from which easy moves lead over a bulge to
a good hold. An intense series of moves on small crimps lead up and rightwards
to a better hold. Move up, with difficulty to reach the lower-off. 8. The
Boltest (7c) *** Long dynamic moves lead to the break, from which a sustained
sequence of moves lead to better holds and a long pull for the lower-off. 9.
Rinsemeal (7a+) Using the flaky crackline, reach the break just to the left
of Jade. Move up using holds on the wall as well as the arete to a balancey finish. 10.
Jade (7a) Using the first bolt on Pistol Fingers for protection, move up to
the base of the prominent groove. Pull into this with difficulty and bridge up
the open-book corner to the belay. 11. Pistol Fingers (8a) ** Easy moves
lead to the break, from which a complicated series of moves lead up and then slightly
left to a very tricky finish. 12. Exit Wounds (7c+) ** Move up and undercut
the break to reach distant holds on the wall above. Hard moves lead to a better
hold, from which a prominent side-pull can be reached on the right. Make a long
reach to small crimps, which lead to a resting hold. Climb direct, with difficulty
to the lower-off. 13. Future Primitive (7b) *Strenuous moves lead over
the bulge into the steep crackline. Sustained and balancey climbing lead up this
to the lower-off on the left. 14. Duality (7b+) Move up the flake and
make a long reach to the ledge above. Stand on this and climb directly to the
lower-off on small crimps. 15. Crystalline (7a) With little for the
feet, lay-back up the crackline to a better hold. Continue via balancey layaway
moves to the lower-off. 16. Sac du Sable (6c) * Starting at the base
of the shallow groove, move up then reach rightwards to gain the crackline proper. Steep
moves on good holds lead directly to the lower-off. 17. Mr. Jackson's Yawning
(7a+) Step onto the ledge and move up the wall to a final difficult crux. |