Dennis Vallins on Private Prosecution (6c), Main Wall. Photo: Steve Lewis
This quarry has to lay claim to be one of the most popular sports-climbing venues in the Peak providing easily accessible facilities together with a quick drying face (no seepage!) and a wealth of easier grade sport routes ranging in grade from 6a through to 7b.
Access to the cliff should need little introduction and the same can be said of its main routes but since a significant number of new routes have been added together with a re-evaluation of the in-situ protection (despite comments from a certain magazine editor), it now warrants a new topo over 100 routes in total.
The quarry is notoriously quick drying and receives any afternoon sunshine going. It is an ideal venue in the winter and spring months when other venues are wet after winter seepage. The only off-putting factor is the wind. The quarry is very open and if the wind is blowing youll definitely get some of it.