This crag, which is very easy to locate, is situated on the hillside above the
railway station in Matlock. It is obvious by the quarry entrance on the left-hand
side of the road when travelling towards Snitterton from the new Sainsburys in
Matlock: it is the first layby at the top of the hill just after a left-hand turn.
This is a very expansive quarry with a lot of poor rock. There is, however, a
very compact wall on the middle tier complete with overlap and good quality rock
with a high friction potential.
This is relatively straightforward. When travelling down the A6 from Bakewell,
turn right at the new roundabout in Matlock and take the first right into Sainsbury's.
Turn immediately right before the petrol station and follow the road up the hill
until the new tarmac disappears. The entrance to the quarry is just on the left
beyond the obvious layby: an old board, now removed used to mark the quarry entrance.
The quarry is vast and contains a helicopter landing pad in its centre. To reach
the second tier skirt left via a track on the left just before this landing pad
and follow it round to the obvious wall with a strip overhang in its centre. Other
routes are to be found in the close proximity to this and are described in text.
be made clear that Tarmac does not consent to any climbing activity on its property
and that this site in no way encourages any climber to so do.