Harpur
Hill
Much
has been written over the past few years with respect to the climbing at Harpur
Hill the majority of which has centred around the argument as to whether sports-climbing
should exist therefor not. In 1994 Nadim Siddiqui and Bill Birch began redevelopment
of the quarry, after it
had lain dormant for many years, with a view to providing
a major sports-climbing venue for the area with routes throughout the grading
spectrum. Of course such actions were to raise the eyebrows of a few anti-bolting
lobbyists and during the ensuing debate or, in fact, before any bolting debate
was made, the bolts were stripped from the routes and the venue
was no more.
Subsequent to this, and after a extremely heated debate in conjunction
with the BMC, it was agreed that sports-climbing could coexist alongside the traditional
routes of the crag as long as bolts were not placed alongside natural placements
or conflicted to any great extent with existing routes. Hence a number of the
routes have been rebolted, with a few more yet to be done, and a significant number
of new climbs have appeared.
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What’s
the climbing like?
The majority of routes here centre around technical face climbing and by comparison
to most sports climbing in the Peak are significantly longer. This lends an atmosphere
of sustained interest throughout. There are also a number of excellent traditional
crack and groove lines together with a few short technical horrors. Altogether
there is a large choice of styles to choose from.
When
should I go there?
The cliff faces in a westerly direction and only gets any sunshine after about
3pm. Due to its open nature it dries extremely quickly and takes little seepage
which in turn makes it a very cold venue in the winter months. This is a perfect
place to spend a spring or summer evening or indeed provides a welcome morning
retreat in scorching summer weather. |  |
Five
Day Forecast for this Crag
Four views of routes at Harpur Hill all with Gary Gibson climbing.
From top left and clockwise are:
Bag of Bones (6a+), Full Frontal (6c),
The Talisman (7a) and Viagra Falls (6c+)
All photos by Carl Ryan
If
you would like to donate or contribute to the bolting fund which helps replace
worn out gear and prepare new crags as in the case of Masson Lees, please contact
Gary Gibson at the e-mail address below or send cheques to Gary Gibson, Keristone,
Carr Bank, Oakamoor, Stoke-on-Trent, Staffs. ST10 3DG.
