1. What's the Paint? (5) left-hand line with hardest moves low down.

2. Pity the Grafitti (5) pleasant long rib with steep pull through initial bulge.

3. Set Fred Free (6a) the left-hand line from the high platform gives pleasant climbing to a steep finale.

4. Wilky's Revenge (5+) * the central line from the platform gives a very pleasant wall climb.

5. Making Plans for Nidge (6b) * takes a line through the left-hand side of the alcove and past Nidge himself.

6. Helzapoppin' (7a) ** a superb stamina exercise through the centre of the alcove. Doesn't let up.

7. Right Said Fred (6b) climbs through the right-hand side of the roof on big holds and layaways.

8. Coyote Club (6a) takes the left-hand side of the low wall and can be used to gain routes 6 and 7.