This buttress is situated at the right-hand end of the lower tier facing the turquoise pool. It consists of a bay of rock with some excellent sports climbs and four long-neglected but worthwhile traditional climbs.
1. Old Fiends (6c+) * excellent wall above problematic bulge on perfect rock.
2. Carvery (6a+) superb calcite crack onto delicate face above. Can be dusty.
3. The Wrong Unconquerable (6b) * classic crackline on unusual rock to superb finale on a layback flake. "It's the same as Left Unconquerable but the other way around."
4. Fartless (7a+) * short tricky section low down followed by hard fingery sequence on upper wall. Bouldery.
5. Strap a Doc to Me (6c) the unusually fluted face on the right. Again worthwhile.
6. The Gypsy King's (6c) * isolated arete between faces with fine climbing. Unusual.
7. Gooncrack (6b+) obvious crack in sidewall with definite short crux section
8. Forfeit or Doom (6b+) * the prominent arete with some good climbing above the pinnacle.
9. Meshrug a my shoulders (6b) face about right-hand side of pinnacle on ledge.
10. Profitless (6b) * balancy face climbing above ledge to strenuous finale through crack in overlap.
11. Merry Pheasant E1 5c thin grassy cracks to the right ledge to another crack through the overlap.
12. Moontalk (6b+) technical face climbing with a short hard section. Tricky final move.
13. Frantic Manoeuvres E2 5c fine climbing to the right via a ramp to a ledge. Finish via a short crack and TR.
14. Bonedigger E1 5b prominent thin crack which is full of grass at the moment.
15. Prefect Day (6b) * highly pleasant face climbing with tricky moves through the final steepening.
16. Silently Sprung (6b) * the face and arete just to the right.
17. Thirty Nine and a Half Steps E1 5b vegetated rock to the right leads onto the left-hand side of the upper face.
18. White Wind (6a) the final section of face gives enjoyable climbing with a half height ledge.
|Approaches and Access|
|Dark Side Left-Hand|
|Dark Side Right-Hand|
|The Lower Tier|
|Peak Area Index|