Character:

An impressive new find with a wealth of excellent pitches ranging in the sports-climbing grades from 5+ through, currently, to 7a. Its ease of access, only 2mins from the car, should make it an ideal venue.

Situation:

This is relatively straightforward. When travelling down the A6 from Bakewell, turn right at the new roundabout in Matlock and take the first right into Sainsbury's. Turn immediately right before the petrol station and follow the road up the hill until the new tarmac disappears. Park in the first lay-by on the left, just after the tarmac runs out: the quarry is over the wall to the right.

Approaches:

Once the car parking place has been found, walk 50m towards Snitterton and hop over the wall on the other side of the road: this is just before a large green sign for 'Matlock'.

Scramble down the slope and the cliff will be immediately obvious on the left.

This is a very long cliff and currently only the initial walls have been developed. At the far end of the cliff is a pool used for fishing. Any disturbance to this area may not currently be welcome so please do not progress beyond the obvious barbed wire fence at the end of the cliff.