Arch Walls
Caretaker Quarry
Approaches and Access
Father Walls
Take Away Walls
Darkness Walls
Runnel Walls
Pipeline Walls
The Back Wall
Numero Walls
Abide Walls
Peak Index
Orchid Walls
Orange Walls
Sunset Walls

Amistad Walls

The back wall has a very impressive profile littered with crack and groove lines. Towards its right-hand side this wall reduces in height below an impressive black shield of rock. The area from here leftwards is known as the Amistad Walls.

Welcome to my Drains 14m VS the corner/crackline at the top of the slope.

1. Girl Drink Drunk 15m E1 5b *the cracked wall left of the corner finishing direct at the top when the cracks run out. Excellent climbing but a bit of an eliminate.

2. You're Pushing a Broom 15m VS 4b the wide crack to an obvious sentry box. Finish with care through the right-hand side of the roof.

3. Amistad E5 6a ** the centre of the fine black wall to the left with fingery moves low down and boldish but easier climbing above. 2 PRs. Photo.

4. Slave 16m E2 5b * to the left is a short corner leading to a ledge. With side runners in the crackline, make committing moves rightwards, PR, and continue diagonally right to the break. Either move back left to follow the crack to the top or, better, pull directly through the overlap onto the short headwall. Superb, bold and high in the grade.

5. Rat in a Bucket 18m E1 5b climb the front of the short wall past flowstone to the ledge. Continue up the crack system above.

6. Elkasaltsa E4 6a * thin crack with a difficult start leads to a vague upper arete on good holds.

7. Big Moose 25m E1 5b ** the tower at the bottom of the slope. Start at an obvious steep crack leading from the top of a slight corner. Continue up the centre of the front face of the tower in a fine position.

8. Harmony in my Head E5 6b *** the impressive face left of Big Moose. Hard technical face climbing low down leads past 4PRs to a respite, small wires, and small ledge above. The front face of the tower is climbed by an easier thin crack and excellent headwall.

9. Music to my Ears (7a) * the prominent pillar to a half-height lower off gives a steep fingery exercise at its conclusion.

The Sound of Music (6c) * short but worthwhile with a fingery start.

20m to the left is a long slim corner with a prominent right arete. Just to the right of this is an obvious corner starting at 10m.

11. More Loco than Cocoa E3 5c from the base of the long slim corner climb the right wall to the base of the corner. Climb the corner and make a wild swing right and then up onto the wall, PR. Climb the wall above via a thin crackline, good wire protection, to a ledge. Finish via the blunt rib to the right exiting slightly leftwards.

12. No Logo 28m E1 5a about 25m to the left is an arete. Climb a short wall to its left then cross a slab to the corner. Follow this until it is possible to swing right onto the arete, which is followed to the top.

13. Living the Dream E4 6a * climb the smooth looking left wall of the corner by superb technical moves, 3BRs, stepping slightly left at the break. Continue on the upper wall slightly rightwards via breaks and a thin crack, PR, to a ledge. Finish up the easier crack above.

14. Weasel Words HVS 5a * a good long route taking the obvious crackline leading to the prominent right-facing corner. Exit left from this and up via the grey headwall.

15. Drink the Girl Drunk (6b) a short slabby wall with a technical sequence to gain the belay. Lies just left of an elder tree.

The next two routes share a common start and tackle the major wall 25m to the left. Another rope may be useful to reach a belay for these routes. Start just left of a corner at a crackline leading through an overlap to a sickle-shaped scar.

16. I Love You 29m E2 5b ** Follow the crack through a slight overlap to a ledge. Continue up the crack to move right into the corner below the overhang; exit right to a pedestal. Pull quickly through the short steep wall to another ledge. Continue direct up the superb headwall on hidden holds and fossils. Fantastic exposure, take a large rack.

17. Mm Mmm 30m E3 5c ** the original route up the wall was less direct but turned out to be harder, with the crux where it should be. As for I Love You to the pedestal. Pull urgently leftwards and up the short steep section into a groove, then easily up ledges to the left. Follow a faint line leading slightly rightwards up the imposing headwall.

18. Ho Hum 25m E3 5c * Start at the next thin crack. Climb this direct via a left-facing corner, PR on right wall, to its end. Climb the steep wall above, PR, swing right onto a ledge. Finish initially straight up the headwall, then rightwards.

Crumbling Empire (6c+) short difficult route on poor rock with a hard start and finish. Not on topo and just to the left.