Situation:

In some ways a difficult place to locate but once found, the parking proves very convenient and the cliff is only 5 minutes walk from the car. It is situated on the hill at Middleton Top, the quarry overlooking Black Rocks and the town of Worksworth.

Character:

This is a huge quarry with a very expansive array of impressive walls. Some of these have produced a network of quality traditional climbs, not unlike Pembroke whilst other walls have provided some superb sports climbs.

Many of these sports climbs are of significant height (20m+) and are of a quality of rock more akin to Portland than anywhere else in the country.

Approaches:

Slightly complex. Take any road into Cromford via the A6 and turn right, when coming from Matlock Bath, at the traffic lights. Go straight up the hill until Black Rocks will be seen on the left and turn right, signposted for Ashbourne. At the next cross roads, go straight across, past the Rising Sun public house. In 200m take a right turn, signposted for Middleton Top. Follow this road but do not turn into the car park but follow the gravel track for 400m to a parking place on the left by a stone building. The quarry entrance lies 50m ahead, This point can also be reached from Ashbourne by following the road past Carsington Water and taking a left turn onto the aforementioned road - difficult to spot.

Layout:

Once inside the quarry it will be very apparent of its vast size. A number of extremely worthwhile traditional routes (to be reported shortly) have been done on the identified walls but the sports climbs lie on two walls: the Take Out Wall lies straight ahead on a small left-facing subsidiary wall of the main quarry: the Darkness Walls provide the main left-hand flank of the quarry with an array of long, 'fused' lines on angled walls.

Access:

It should be made clear that Tarmac does not consent to any climbing activity on its property and that this site in no way aims to encourage climbers to participate in such activities there.