Pwll Ddu Topo

The Routes:
Although the face is very expansive, the section only accessible for climbing is towards its left-hand side. Here small flakes, arete and steep grooves abound, though on the fringes of the face tufas, rugosities and quartz edges abound. Should this section of cliff ever be developed it will be a very impressive climbing are.
For completeness three natural routes are included in the hope that they will one day be bolted?(!)
1. Ashes to Ashes E3 5c a superb pitch up the large open groove line. Plenty of gear with a PR as well. Would be 6c if bolted
2. Fourty for Three E5 6b (7b) * a sinlge very technical move with difficult clips and off-balance climbing. Fingery.
3. Senser (part 1) E6 6b (7b+) ** short, sharp shock treatment. Snatchy climbing for the fingery crux.
4. Senser E6 6b (7c+) *** the first claimed 8a in South East Wales but now 7c+. Sustained with a bad sixth clip. A magnificent sustained effort.
5. Jezebel E5 6b (7a+) ** an excellent introduction to the harder sport climbs. Easily up the groove with a fine, reachy finish.

6. Crock Block E3 6a (6c) * a good little route and the easiest on the crag. Steep and relatively juggy.
7. Old Slapper E5 6b (7a+) a hideous little route with a desperate and very trying start. The effort expended to climb 10ft of rock proves quite surprising.
8. Skedaddle E5 6b not really a sport route since wires are required to reach the first and very distant bolt runner.
9. Dust to Dust E4 5c a sustained and bold route with gear but only just enough. An old PR is buried by the ivy.
10. The Flight of Icarus E3 5c the prominent layback crack.