| Oxwich Approaches | Crag in the Woods |
Crag in the Woods
Please note that the section of crag between Red Leicester and Tump Jumper has fallen down.
To the left of the descent is a small buttress with 5 routes. From left to right: Unnamed (F6c+) desperate move past single BR, Open Verdict(F6b+) start up tiny groove, Swift Justice (VS 4c) main groove, Before the Beak (F7a+) arete and the Jury's Out (F7a) right-most line. There are also other project in between.
1.
Teasin' the Zits (6b+)
First line on wall right of descent.
2. Pip-Squeak (6b) Short pleasant
wall, 2PRs.
3. Treadin' the Grapes (6b+) Another tricky wall, PR, BR.
4. Squeezin' the Pips VS 4c Short groove line.
5. Stoned Dates
(7a) * Wall with tufas. Excellent and fingery.
6. Figura (7a+) *
Right side of arete. Short and depressingly desperate.
7. Pickin' Berries
(7a) * Obvious corner-line left of arete. Technical thought short.
8.
Project Arete.
9. No Resin Why E1 5b Crack with large TR low down.
BB on right at top.
10. The Oxwich Bobby (7a) Technical wall with rugosities
to right. 4BRs.
11. The Oxwich Blobby (7b) * Smooth-looking wall left
of corner. Intense on small holds.
12. Resin Hate E2 5c Large angle
of bay. Classic line to BB.
13. Resination (7a+) Wall 10ft right of
corner.
14. Project (Passion Fish) Mega-overhanging flake. Awesome.
15.
Project Impressive overhanging arete.
16. Red Leicester (6b) Prominent
red groove. Difficult start. 4BRs.
17.
Say Cheese Please (7b) ** Sharp-edged arete. Fine line, fingery at start.
18. Whey It Up (7c) * Sustained leaning scoop with hectic finale to
clip BB.
19. Big Cheese (7a) ** Shallow groove and flake high up. Classic.
20. Project Shallow groove and flake high up. Forgotten?
21.
The Route of all Evil (8b+) * Hideous overlaps and wall right again.
22.
For Sportsmen of the Epoxy Clips (6c) ** Short difficult arete and fine wall.
Classic.
23. Epoxy Clips Now (7a) * Leftwards up shallow groove at
back of angle. Blind finish.
24. Inferno (8b) ** Hideous-looking wall
via thin crack and marginal finish.
25. Plum Duff (7b) * Sharp-edged
arete with desperate start. 4BRs to BB.
26. Sans Arete (7c+) * Very
technical arete with overlap.
27. Ambrosia Mountain (7c) * Desperate
'Nectar-like' corner. Lower off last BR.
28. Extra-Ordinary Little Cough
E1 5b * Prominent, large layback flake. Traditional to BB.
29. Sweet
September (7a) * Technical wall with small flake high up
30. Tump Jumper
(7a) Short intense wall of grassy mound. 3BRs to BB.