It will come as quite a surprise to many that sports climbing has become available in the Gower due in part to its ‘traditional’ flavour as well as its coastal aspect. This has been due to a couple of reasons:

In the late Fifties/early Sixties, one Jeremy Talbot had an open hand to development in the area and as well as establishing a number of popular classics of the area also established a number of routes which required a large amount of aid, including bolts. This leant the area its bolting precedent and since the development of sports climbing certain activists were invariably going to cast their eyes over new cliffs.

Subsequently in the mid Nineties a trio of new cliffs were discovered, developed and agreement drawn up between local climbers, the BMC, a number of landowners and nature conservancies to allow access to the cliffs. I therefore hope to increase the number of pages in this volume and likewise to the variety of climbing in the area. For further information on the cliffs included here contact:

Gary@sportsclimbs.co.uk

Goi Ashmore of Palace of Swords Reversed. Photo Carl Ryan

Oxwich Bay Crag: (updated 22.1.2004) probably the most impressive find on the Gower. A series of impressive walls springing from the sea give a wealth of fine hard pitches in the 7s. Into the forest leads to another batch of fine and hard climbs. The odd easier route can be found such as Kissing the Pink (6c).

Minchin Hole: unfortunately currently debolted this still gives a brilliant zawn 7a+ in the Raven. (Updated 10.6.05)

Fox Hole: (updated 21.1.2004) another classic venue full of routes from 6c+ and upwards. Steep stuff abounds.

Pwll Ddu Bay: (updated 21.1.2004) a truly idyllic setting straight from a magnificent beach. In the shade after midday.

Trial Wall: (updated 21.1.2004) an old haunting ground with a few classic trad. routes and two or three impressive sports routes.

Bosco's Den: a new crag on the scene with a number of unusuall 'fused' pitches. Some fine trad. routes to come onto the sight.

Barlands Quarry: an inland quarry with a wealth of hideously technical slab routes.