crag forms a large cave towards its left-hand side, the first routes being on
the prominent grey pillar.
Unlikely Alliance (6b) *
steep open climbing. A good warm up..
2. Connard Canard (7b) * very
steep line up a grey streak. Two hard moves compliant on a long reach and a strong
3. Goose 'n Lucy (6c+) ** magnificent jug pulling up the
right-hand side of the pillar, almost in the cave. A hard start and complex finish.
Pioneers of the Hypnotic Groove (7b) *** brilliant sustained climbing up the
groove at the back of the cave. One badly placed bolt and lots of effort required.
Palace of Swords Reversed (8a) ** powerful. Two very vicious moves on the
alarmingly overhanging wall.
6. Chicken Licken (6c+) short, sharp shock
up overhanging arete.
Foxy Lady (7a) ** magnificent trad. route soon to be bolted. Will be 7a when
done Can start up the Hooker to make a more direct route.
8. The Hooker
(7a) ** another superb sustained pitch with a sting in the tail. Move left
to the belay at the top. Originally started up Joy de Viva but direct this way.
9. Joy de Viva (7a+) *** a magnificent direct pitch, sustained and
fingery but still low in its respective grade. A long reach helps.
Power Play (7b+) ** a fine fingery pitch on crisp little edges and side-pulls.
A long reach helps after a peculiar start.
11. Turkey Lurking (7c) **
leftwards exit from BR three on Power Play to the belay of Foxy Lady. Pumpy.
Ducky Lucky (7a+) ** superb climbing with a long reach or over-technical move.
Still low in the grade.
13. The Day the Sky Fell In (6b+) * pleasant
jug-pulling warm up on fringes of wall.