Monk's Buttress - Jibber Area

1. Desperado E4 6a * short complex wall. Technical and bold.

2. Breaking the Reality Effect E3 6a * Direct up fine arete. Hard low down and high up. Some situ gear.

3. Jibber E1 5b * Wide corner crack gives old style classic.

4. Edgeley E5 6b ** overhanging arete gives a fine, sustained sports pitch with some situ gear.

5. Life E3 5c * varied and pleasant via an open corner high up.

6. Cat in a Rat Trap E3 6a * more of the same to the left to reach a slim groove.

7. Post Mortem of a Football Team E3 6a difficult fingery climbing on the headwall.

8. Adam's Mistake E3 5c airy open scoop behind tree.

1. Up the Veil (7a) short intense wall.

2. Iceburn (7a) * excellent thin face on sidewall. Some situ gear.

3. Vladimir and Olga E3 5c hard start into open scoop.

4. Another Red Line E4 6a ** superb pitch on left arete of scoop. Some situ gear.

5. Screaming Lord Sutch E5 6b ** even better. Wall just left of arete into thin groove.

6. Sir Cathcart D'eath E3 6a ** leftwards crackline gained with difficulty.

7. Catch me if you Can E4 6a * thin crack just left finishing via wall above ledge.

8. The Race is On E3 6a wall to flake continuing directly above.

9. Tamsin E3 6a shallow groove, PR, finishing slightly right.

10. Pierrepoint Pressure E6 6b * prominent hanging scoop finishing by exit right and up.

Further to the left are four other worthwhile routes:

11. Cotterill's Found Another Toe E5 6c blank-looking gray wall leads to thin crack.

12. Sombre Music E5 6b * front face of protruding buttress with PR and BR

Mainly for Pleasure E2 5b blackened wall right of black scoop shallow groove to left, TR. Tree at top.

Black Moments E4 6b * black wall, TR, with scoop and nose, BR.

Bird Restrictions: the area of cliff between Pierrepoint Pressure and Desperado is restricted between February 15th and July 15th. These will be reviewed and lifted once the exact nest site and success or otherwise of the site is know.

Monk's Buttress
Monk's Access and Layout
Sir Cathcart Area
Monkshead Buttress
Pinfold Area
Dinbren
Clwyd Index