Llanymynech - The Nomad Wall

The superb slim wall set at a higher level gives a trio of the best routes in the quarry. All give fantastic wall climbing with a limited amount of fixed gear. Take a full trad rack including a couple of medium sized Friends and a broad selection of wires. NO ROUTES TO BE RETROBOLTED.

To reach the wall, climb the lower arete on its right-hand side before transferring onto a ledge below the main section of wall.

1. Rabble Rouser (6b+)* the right-hand side of the wall, using the arete in many places, gives a fine introduction to the wall. The main difficulties lie in the first 10m. Now bolted.

2. This Won't Hurt (7a) *** the easiest route of the three climbs the wall 5m left of the right-hand arete. Tricky moves low down but the route as a whole provides a fine sustained effort. Now bolted. Photo.

3. Unbroken (7a) *** an impressive pitch tackling the centre of the smoothest section of the wall and saves its hardest section to the final 10m. Fingery and superb.

4. Nomad (7a+) *** the magnificent central line of the wall gives a memorable pitch. Totally direct and absorbing with the crux in the final 8m. Now bolted.

5. The Screaming Skull (7b)*** the left-hand line of the wall now climbed with a direct start and bolted. One very short hard section with an 'energetic' finale. Brilliant Now bolted.

6. Dentine (5+) right-hand side of lower wall.

7. Pull 'em Out (6a) next route in.

8. Root Treatment (6c) * central line with best moves on the wall. Tough Finale.

9. Another Filling (6b+) left-hand line.

The large expanse of wall to the left of this sports one enormous sports route Southern Mountains 6a *. The routes is 50m in length with two lower-offs. 17 clips.