Golden Dawn Buttress

1. Scrapyard Thing E1 5a, 5a a poor route up the left-hand side of the buttress 1 20m start via a loose flake crack and continue via the wall above to a belay below an overlap. 2. 12m pass the overhang to its left to reach a ledge and finish via the chimney on the right.

2. Double Crossbones E3 5c, 5a, 5a * 1. 12m another wandering climb with a fine first pitch via the obvious gray wall past a peg runner to a belay below an overhang. 2. 12m tackle the overhang and corner to a ledge belay. 3. Move back right and continue up the corner to reach an overhang. Pass this to the right and move right to finish via a broken exit corner.

3. Those Stumbling Words (6c+) ** a fine direct line through two overlaps with a superb finale on the headwall after a hard, boulder-problem start which can be avoided on the left.

4. Delaware Slide E4 6a ** A fine pitch taking the left-hand side of the barrel-shaped wall following a vague rib. Escalating difficulties to a tricky finish on the line of some old BRs

5. These Foolish Things (7a+) *** a superb sustained exercise on the centre of the wall beginning on the obvious ramp line and following a system of scoops and bulges to finish on the headwall with a final crux flourish.

6. Gates of the Golden Dawn E5 5b, 6b ** a two pitch route taking the vague rib in the centre of the buttress, PRs, and the final overhang by a short bouldery and difficult sequence.

7. Sunny Side Up Mix (7b) *** Begins from a slightly level. A magnificent pitch taking the right-hand side of the rib via sustained moves to finish via the final jutting prow. Memorable.

8. Black Poppies (7b) ** the vague depression to the right with a series of taxing moves (short-lived) to gain easier ground. The final roof is taken via an impressive, though straightforward crack.

9. Chilean Moon (7b) * Another sustained little affair with a hard section low down through the initial roof to easier climbing and a difficult finale over the roof.

10. Acapulco (7a+) * Another taxing route with a difficult section low down and easier climbing above.

11. Chills of Apprehension E4 6a * The rightward trending weakness, PRs, with difficulty, then head up the wall to the wide finishing crack.

12. Lemon Kerred E3 6b A short test piece on the final rounded buttress past a TR and BR. Wires useful above.

13. Freshly Dug (6a) pleasant face on fringe of wall.

Bird Restrictions: the area of cliff between Digitron and Chilean Moon is restricted between February 15th and July 15th. These will be reviewed and lifted once the exact nest site and success or otherwise of the site is know.