Golden Dawn Buttress

1. Scrapyard Thing E1 5a, 5a a poor route up the left-hand side of the buttress 1 20m start via a loose flake crack and continue via the wall above to a belay below an overlap. 2. 12m pass the overhang to its left to reach a ledge and finish via the chimney on the right.

2. Double Crossbones E3 5c, 5a, 5a * 1. 12m another wandering climb with a fine first pitch via the obvious gray wall past a peg runner to a belay below an overhang. 2. 12m tackle the overhang and corner to a ledge belay. 3. Move back right and continue up the corner to reach an overhang. Pass this to the right and move right to finish via a broken exit corner.

3. Those Stumbling Words (7a) *a fine direct line through two overlaps with a superb finale on the headwall after a hard, boulder-problem start which can be avoided on the left.

4. Delaware Slide E4 6a ** A fine pitch taking the left-hand side of the barrel-shaped wall following a vague rib. Escalating difficulties to a tricky finish on the line of some old BRs

5. These Foolish Things (7a+) *** a superb sustained exercise on the centre of the wall beginning on the obvious ramp line and following a system of scoops and bulges to finish on the headwall with a final crux flourish.

6. Gates of the Golden Dawn E5 5b, 6b ** a two pitch route taking the vague rib in the centre of the buttress, PRs, and the final overhang by a short bouldery and difficult sequence.

7. Sunny Side Up Mix (7b) *** Begins from a slightly level. A magnificent pitch taking the right-hand side of the rib via sustained moves to finish via the final jutting prow. Memorable.

8. Black Poppies (7b) ** the vague depression to the right with a series of taxing moves (short-lived) to gain easier ground. The final roof is taken via an impressive, though straightforward crack.

9. Chilean Moon (7b) * Another sustained little affair with a hard section low down through the initial roof to easier climbing and a difficult finale over the roof.

10. Acapulco (7a+) * Another taxing route with a difficult section low down and easier climbing above.

11. Chills of Apprehension E4 6a * The rightward trending weakness, PRs, with difficulty, then head up the wall to the wide finishing crack.

12. Jam Spread (6b+) short difficult bule, shallow grove and short wall.

13Lemon Kerred E3 6b A short test piece on the final rounded buttress past a TR and BR. Wires useful above.

14. Freshly Dug (6a) pleasant face on fringe of wall.