Nemesis Wall

1. Charlain HVS 5a, 5a Pleasant. Start at the left-hand side of the gray wall, 5m left of a slim white groove. 1. 21m Climb the wall past a break, PR, and after a bulge trend rightwards, PR, until atop a large block. Step right before continue up to a small ledge and tree. 2. 12m Move up and right to a tree then move left via a break and up via a crack.

2. Now and Then E2 5b, 5a Slight better climbing. 1. 21m Fine climbing up the slim white groove leads past 2PRs to a small overlap. Pull over this, PR, to gain better holds leading to a tree belay. 2. 12m Finish as for Charlain.

3. Crocodile Shoes (6b+) * a surprising find up the smooth-looking wall right of Now and Then. Good.

4. Dead Man's Creek (6C) * Getting better. Gain and climb the obvious flake in the wall to the right until moves slightly rightwards and up gain a PR. Continue direct past a jammed wire until a step right leads to the BB.

5. Punch and Judy E5 6b *** A true technical classic, probably more like 7a+. Start 8m right of Now and The. Gain a flake and cross the difficult bulge to gain a break. Stand up and traverse delicately right to reach a shallow groove which eases in difficult for the lower-off to be gained. Plenty of fixed gear.

6. Full Mental Jacket E5 6c * A hard eliminate based around Punch and Judy. Starting 5m further right, cross a flaky bulge onto a small ledge, then step left and up past BRs to reach a break. Stand up and move slightly left to follow a faint groove to reach goods holds. Move slightly left again, then straight up to the belay. Fixed gear.

7. Survival of the Fastest E4 6a *** A true classic of the early eighties with sustained difficulties on a fine line. From the start of Full Mental Jacket, pull rightwards through the bulge to reach the crackline, PR. Climb this, gradually increasing in difficulty to a slight bulge, PRs. Cross this leftwards past a BR with a hard move, and move up to a break, PR. Finish via a slab and straightforward crackline.

8. Survival of the Fattest E5 6b A hard crux section with easier climbing above and below. Starting 5m right of Survival of the Fastest, cross an awkward bulge to gain a series of small flakes leading to a bulge at 20m. Hard moves through this gain an overlap and a finishing crack to its left.

9. Revival of the Latest (7b) * a short desperate wall pitch with a hard lower section and a fingery and technical upper.

10. Friday the Thirteenth E5 6a, 5c *** Start below the obvious long gray streak at the left-hand side of the wall, just right of a small tree. 1. 25m Gain a short groove and step left. Now trend rightwards to a detached flake, PR on the right. Now continue direct to the break. 2. 18m Follow the obvious groove on the left, PRs, moving right over the capping roof to a final wall.

11. Oblivion (7b) ** direct assault on walls through Friday starting and finishing as for Manic.

12. Manic Mechanic E6 6b *** Superb and impressive in one big pitch. Start 3m right of the tree. Climb direct up the black streak, BR, to reach a ramp. From the top of this trend rightwards, PR, into a depression, BR. Pull through the bulge, PR to gain the break and continue up to the second break. Move left up the wall, TR, to reach the roof and pull leftwards through it, PR, to good holds and the top.

13. Smokin' Gun E6 6c, 6a *** A superb first pitch. Start in the centre of the wall below a shallow hanging groove. 1. 21m Climb easily leftwards into the groove and climb this, BRs, moving right with difficulty onto the vague arete, where slightly easier climbing leads up the wall to a flake. Move rightwards, PR, into a scoop, BR. Step back left onto the wall and up to the break. 2. 18m Move up into a niche, then traverse right around a nose, PRs, onto a smooth-looking wall and hanging slab. Finish straight up, PRs.

14. Tres Hombres E6 6a, 5c *** Another classic route. Start 8m left of the large tree at the right-hand side of the face, down and left of an obvious ramp. 1. 25m Move up and then back right up onto the ramp, PR. From its top make tricky moves up the wall, PR, to a small bulge. Pass this on the left to reach a scoop, BR, from where a step left leads onto the wall and hard moves up gain the break crossing the wall. 2. 18m Move left into a steep groove and follow it, PR, to the roof. Move right over this and finish via the juggy headwall.

15. Steppin' Razor E5 6b ** More fine climbing. Start in the tree at the right-hand end of the wall. From part way up the tree swing out left, PR and BR to the left end of a slim roof. Pull through this to reach some flakes and pass an old PR to reach a groove and second roof, PR. Pass this on the right, PR, onto a hanging slab and climb a difficult wall, PR, to finish.

16. Marie Antoinette E5 6b * Squeezed onto the limit of the wall with some good moves. From a ledge behind the tree, move right and up the blunt arete, BR and PR. Pass a second BR to reach the break from where an excellent series of moves lead up the striking finger crack to reach a roof, PRs. Battle through this via a notch, PR, to finish.

17. The Big Plop E3 5b, 6a The prominent hanging groove at the top right-hand side of the wall. Start 5m right of the large tree. 1. 21m Climb the wall from the tree slightly leftwards via a shattered crack and more trees to a ledge. Climb the steeper wall above, PR, to a small ledge left of a bush. 2. 15m Enter the groove from the right and climb it, PRs, to the big roof. Swing right to the arete and finish more easily over loose ground.

To the right are three smaller sports routes, easily identified by their BRs.

Voie de Bart (7a) Gain a ramp to reach a bulge and a difficult sequence through it to the lower-off.

Rubberbandman (7a) * The wall to the right via an overlap and short difficult ramp.

Thumbs Down (6c+) * direct line via hard moves in shallow scoop and starting via flake.

Under my Thumb (6c+) * The best of the three. The fine gray wall on the right via a series of tricky moves at half height.

Let's See Those Fingers (6c) * technical start and overlapping finale.

Bird Restrictions: the area of cliff between Digitron and Chilean Moon is restricted between February 15th and July 15th. These will be reviewed and lifted once the exact nest site and success or otherwise of the site is know.

These have now been lifted as of 7th June 2010.