1. Friday the Thirteenth E5 6a, 5c *** Start below the obvious long grey streak at the left-hand side of the wall, just right of a small tree. 1. 25m Gain a short groove and step left. Now trend rightwards to a detached flake, PR on the right. Now continue direct to the break. 2. 18m Follow the obvious groove on the left, PRs, moving right over the capping roof to a final wall.

2. Manic Mechanic E5 6b *** Superb and impressive in one big pitch. Start 3m right of the tree. Climb direct up the black streak, BR, to reach a ramp. From the top of this trend rightwards, PR, into a depression, BR. Pull through the bulge, PR to gain the break and continue up to the second break. Move left up the wall, TR, to reach the roof and pull leftwards through it, PR, to good holds and the top.

3. Smokin' Gun E6 6c, 6a *** A superb first pitch. Start in the centre of the wall below a shallow hanging groove. 1. 21m Climb easily leftwards into the groove and climb this, BRs, moving right with difficulty onto the vague arete, where slightly easier climbing leads up the wall to a flake. Move rightwards, PR, into a scoop, BR. Step back left onto the wall and up to the break. 2. 18m Move up into a niche, then traverse right around a nose, PRs, onto a smooth-looking wall and hanging slab. Finish straight up, PRs.

4. Tres Hombres E5 6a, 5c *** Another classic route. Start 8m left of the large tree at the right-hand side of the face, down and left of an obvious ramp. 1. 25m Move up and then back right up onto the ramp, PR. From its top make tricky moves up the wall, PR, to a small bulge. Pass this on the left to reach a scoop, BR, from where a step left leads onto the wall and hard moves up gain the break crossing the wall. 2. 18m Move left into a steep groove and follow it, PR, to the roof. Move right over this and finish via the juggy headwall.

5. Steppin' Razor E5 6b ** More fine climbing. Start in the tree at the right-hand end of the wall. From part way up the tree swing out left, PR and BR to the left end of a slim roof. Pull through this to reach some flakes and pass an old PR to reach a groove and second roof, PR. Pass this on the right, PR, onto a hanging slab and climb a difficult wall, PR, to finish.

6. Marie Antoinette E5 6b * Squeezed onto the limit of the wall with some good moves. From a ledge behind the tree, move right and up the blunt arete, BR and PR. Pass a second BR to reach the break from where an excellent series of moves lead up the striking finger crack to reach a roof, PRs. Battle through this via a notch, PR, to finish.

7. The Big Plop E3 5b, 6a The prominent hanging groove at the top right-hand side of the wall. Start 5m right of the large tree. 1. 21m Climb the wall from the tree slightly leftwards via a shattered crack and more trees to a ledge. Climb the steeper wall above, PR, to a small ledge left of a bush. 2. 15m Enter the groove from the right and climb it, PRs, to the big roof. Swing right to the arete and finish more easily over loose ground.

To the right are three smaller sports routes, easily identified by their BRs.

8. Voie de Bart (7a) Gain a ramp to reach a bulge and a difficult sequence through it to the lower-off.

9. Rubberbandman (7a) * The wall to the right via an overlap and short difficult ramp.

10. Under my Thumb (6c+) * The best of the three. The fine grey wall on the right via a series of tricky moves at half height.