Craig Arthur
Craig Arthur Access
Dawn Buttress
Manikins Area
Digitron Area
Survival Area
Nemesis Area
Clwyd Index

La Chacal Area

1. Was it Stew E4 6a, 5a** A fine route on the gleaming white pillar at the left end of the face. Pick a line up the centre of the face keeping to a line of BRs via some technical moves, until a swing right and up a flake gains a resting place. Easier climbing leads straight up to a large ledge. From here move left and up via a series of overlaps on good holds.

2. The Fall and Decline E3 5c, 5a ** Steep and satisfying on a strong line. Start below a prominent square-cut corner. 1. 25m Climb the wall to reach a leftward-trending flake. Follow this to an overlap and swing left and up to gain a groove. Follow this, moving right onto the arete and then up to a ledge. 12m Climb the overhangs via a break.

3. La Chacal E2 5c ** Another classy pitch with strenuous climbing on a good line. 1. 25m From the foot of the leftward-trending crack on Fall and Decline, move right and up a square-cut corner to a roof. Swing out right in a fine position and then gain the yellow-flecked wall above. Good holds on this lead upwards before a traverse right gain a small ledge. 2. 12m Climb the flake right of the stance moving right and then up an easy groove.

4. A Touch of Class E2 5b, 5b, 5a *** A classic expedition finding a way across the face in typical 80s style. 1 25m From the first horizontal break on La Chacal, move right and climb the compact wall to a PR on the left-hand side of a white wall. Traverse carefully right across this, PR, to reach a ramp/slab. Belay below the roofs at the top of this. 2. 15m Continue the traverse right to reach a steep groove line. Follow this to a TR, then swing right to the shattered arete, PR. Climb this and a short wall to a tree belay. Traverse back left along the ledge to a rounded arete and finish via this.

5. Back Yard Holiday E4 6a ** A fine single pitch route with plenty of climbing. Starting 5m right of a Touch of Class. Climb up to a bulge and make a tricky move to get established above, TR. Continue directly up the wall, PR, to join the traverse of a Touch of Class, PR. Step right and move up to the break, PR, then gain some undercut holds in the bulge above, BR. Pull over the bulge and continue over easier rock, PR, to finish via a slim groove.

6. Swelling Itching Brain E5 6c * A tough technical section low down. Start 3m right of Back Yard Holiday. Climb the lower wall, then step left and stand up, PR. Tackle the difficult wall above on layaways to a big edge, BR, then pull out right onto the base of the ramp. Climb easily up this, then move left and gain a PR in the break. Pull through the bulge, BR as for BYH, and finish via a slim groove.

7. One Continuous Picnic E5 6b *** A fabulous pitch with sustained hard climbing but good gear. Start at the right-hand end of the slim wall preventing entry to its upper section. Move up to the break (prickly bush) and follow a series of thin flakes and cracks direct, PR, BR, to a respite below the right-hand side of a large overlap, PR. Pull up and leftwards, BR, on good holds to gain easier climbing leading to a ledge and easier ground above.

8. Three Dimensions E2 5b, 5b ** Another classy pitch on the right-hand side of the wall. Start below a leftwards-trending flake line. 1. 27m Climb a short corner and overcome the overlap in favour of the flake line. Follow this to a small ledge, PR, then move right and up into a crackline. Avoid the large overhang above for a bottomless groove on the left (junction with Touch of Class) and follow this exiting right at a TR onto the right-hand arete, PR. This leads to a ledge and belay. 2. 12m Move left into a corner and follow this via its upper roof.