1. Rubs and Tugs (7c) * tackle the left-hand side of the large roof above the impressive mid-height yew tree. This can be gained by easier climbing from below and to the left. 2. Eliminator E4 6a ** A superb top pitch. Start 9m right of the large yew tree 1. 18m Climb a shallow corner, then trend leftwards to a belay in a curved bay. 2. 18m Gain the tiered overlaps and power through these, 2PRs, into a smooth-looking recess, TR. Technical climbing up this and through a bulge, PR, gains the top. 3. Pi (8a) ** impressive line right of roofs via a shallow groove and desperately fingery headwall. 4. California Highway Patrol (7c) *** another superb pitch tackling the right-hand side of the impressive white headwall and gained via an unpleasant start. Once over the initial bulge and brilliant sequence leads up via a shallow groove and tough headwall. 5. Tito E1 5b, 5a A meandering route with some interest. Start towards the right-hand side of the bay below the overlaps in the upper walls. 1. 18m Follow a shallow groove before moving rightwards across the gray slab, Pr, to reach a bulge. Move up, step right to gain a belay below a strip overhang. 2. 21m Pass the overhang to gain a crack. Finish slightly leftwards on dubious rock and via a faint scoop. 6. About Time (7b) *** bisects the line of Tito via some low technical moves and an easy central section before stepping right and climbing a shallow scoop in the headwall to a very taxing finale on small holds. Superb climbing but frustrating at the top. 7. Pour Lulubelle E3 6c ** a new classic taking the difficult smooth wall, PR and BR to the main overlap. Above this take the superbly positioned blunt rib via cracks and edges. 8. Digitron E2 5c *** Superb climbing with the crux towards the top. Start 5m left of a steep and rounded gray arete. Straightforward climbing on the lower wall, PR, gains a small tree slightly to the right. Continue straight up past a second PR to a short slab and faint crack in a bulge, PR. Pull over this and pass to the right of the next overlap to reach a break on the rib. Magnificent climbing slightly leftwards gains a flake, PR, and a tricky move to gain easier ground leading to the top. 9. Heaven or Hell E5 6b *** Another classic pitch well worth seeking out. If combined with Digitron gives a brilliant E5 6a. Start just right of the impressive rounded gray rib. Climb the vague pocketed ramp and make a series of blind moves leftwards, BR, to reach a good hold at the base of a tiny groove. Stand up and pull out onto the arete, which is climbed on its right-hand side to a break (junction with Digitron). Step right and surmount the bulge rightwards, BR, move back left onto the slab and a junction with Digitron at its crux. | Craig Arthur |
| Craig Arthur Access | |
| Chacal Area | |
| Dawn Buttress | |
| Badge Area | |
| Nemesis Area | |
| Llanymynech | |
| Clwyd Index | |