1. Tito E1 5b, 5a A meandering route with some interest. Start towards the right-hand side of the bay below the overlaps in the upper walls. 1. 18m Follow a shallow groove before moving rightwards across the grey slab, Pr, to reach a bulge. Move up, step right to gain a belay below a strip overhang. 2. 21m Pass the overhang to gain a crack. Finish slightly leftwards on dubious rock and via a faint scoop.

2. Digitron E2 5c *** Superb climbing with the crux towards the top. Start 5m left of a steep and rounded grey arete. Straightforward climbing on the lower wall, PR, gains a small tree slightly to the right. Continue straight up past a second PR to a short slab and faint crack in a bulge, PR. Pull over this and pass to the right of the next overlap to reach a break on the rib. Magnificent climbing slightly leftwards gains a flake, PR, and a tricky move to gain easier ground leading to the top.

3. Heaven or Hell E5 6b *** Another classic pitch well worth seeking out. If combined with Digitron gives a brilliant E5 6a. Start just right of the impressive rounded grey rib. Climb the vague pocketed ramp and make a series of blind moves leftwards, BR, to reach a good hold at the base of a tiny groove. Stand up and pull out onto the arete, which is climbed on its right-hand side to a break (junction with Digitron). Step right and surmount the bulge rightwards, BR, move back left onto the slab and a junction with Digitron at its crux.

4. Alpha Track Etch E6 6c ** A very touch pitch with some good climbing throughout. Start below the right-hand side of the low-level overlaps. Pull through these onto a slab, PR, then traverse left on undercuts before making a series of hard moves, BR, to gain a short thin crack. Power up the undercut flake on the right, PR, to reach a break and continue direct from this, 2PRs. Step left to breach the bulge, BR, TR, to finish via a more straightforward crackline.

5. Badge E1 5c, 4c A poor route. Start 4m right of Alpha Track Etc. 1. 20m Pass an overhang, PR, to reach a groove and follow this, PR, to reach a scoop and belay. 2. 12m Finish via the scoop, exiting left below a bulge via a wall.

6. Keeping Secrets E5 6c * Begin at a slightly higher level. Good climbing but tough at the crux. From a small tree, stand up and enter a shallow scoop, PR, to reach better holds. Climb the flake on the left pas a thin break, PR, to reach a V-shaped groove. Swing out left to exit via a lichen-flecked wall.

7. Walls Have Ears E4 6b Start 5m right again. Climb a faint flake passing a BR with difficulty to reach better holds. Follow these to a ledge, then traverse left to finish up Keeping Secrets.

8. Scary Fairy E3 5c, 5b Start below an obvious flake further right. 1. 12m Gain the flake by strenuous moves and follow it steeply to a cave belay. 2. 17m Move left to a junction with Keeping Secrets at the V-shaped groove and finish up it.

9. Ten (7c) *** A brilliant pitch up the fine wall and impressive large bulge right of Scary Fairy. Straightforward, relatively, to the bulge where the interest begins in a sequence of powerful and demanding moves.