Digitron Area

1. Rubs and Tugs (7c) * tackle the left-hand side of the large roof above the impressive mid-height yew tree. This can be gained by easier climbing from below and to the left.

2. Eliminator E4 6a ** A superb top pitch. Start 9m right of the large yew tree 1. 18m Climb a shallow corner, then trend leftwards to a belay in a curved bay. 2. 18m Gain the tiered overlaps and power through these, 2PRs, into a smooth-looking recess, TR. Technical climbing up this and through a bulge, PR, gains the top.

3. Pi (8a) ** impressive line right of roofs via a shallow groove and desperately fingery headwall.

4. California Highway Patrol (7c) *** another superb pitch tackling the right-hand side of the impressive white headwall and gained via an unpleasant start. Once over the initial bulge and brilliant sequence leads up via a shallow groove and tough headwall.

5. Tito E1 5b, 5a A meandering route with some interest. Start towards the right-hand side of the bay below the overlaps in the upper walls. 1. 18m Follow a shallow groove before moving rightwards across the gray slab, Pr, to reach a bulge. Move up, step right to gain a belay below a strip overhang. 2. 21m Pass the overhang to gain a crack. Finish slightly leftwards on dubious rock and via a faint scoop.

6. About Time (7b) *** bisects the line of Tito via some low technical moves and an easy central section before stepping right and climbing a shallow scoop in the headwall to a very taxing finale on small holds. Superb climbing but frustrating at the top.

7. Digitron E2 5c *** Superb climbing with the crux towards the top. Start 5m left of a steep and rounded gray arete. Straightforward climbing on the lower wall, PR, gains a small tree slightly to the right. Continue straight up past a second PR to a short slab and faint crack in a bulge, PR. Pull over this and pass to the right of the next overlap to reach a break on the rib. Magnificent climbing slightly leftwards gains a flake, PR, and a tricky move to gain easier ground leading to the top.

8. Heaven or Hell E5 6b *** Another classic pitch well worth seeking out. If combined with Digitron gives a brilliant E5 6a. Start just right of the impressive rounded gray rib. Climb the vague pocketed ramp and make a series of blind moves leftwards, BR, to reach a good hold at the base of a tiny groove. Stand up and pull out onto the arete, which is climbed on its right-hand side to a break (junction with Digitron). Step right and surmount the bulge rightwards, BR, move back left onto the slab and a junction with Digitron at its crux.

Bird Restrictions: the area of cliff between Digitron and Chilean Moon is restricted between February 15th and July 15th. These will be reviewed and lifted once the exact nest site and success or otherwise of the site is know.

These have now been lifted as of 7th June 2010.