Badge Wall

The crag now reappears again after a large grassy ramp and some poor rock. This area through the Nemesis Wall is probably the most impressive bit of rock on the crag.

1. Digitron E2 5c *** Superb climbing with the crux towards the top. Start 5m left of a steep and rounded gray arete. Straightforward climbing on the lower wall, PR, gains a small tree slightly to the right. Continue straight up past a second PR to a short slab and faint crack in a bulge, PR. Pull over this and pass to the right of the next overlap to reach a break on the rib. Magnificent climbing slightly leftwards gains a flake, PR, and a tricky move to gain easier ground leading to the top.

2. Heaven or Hell E5 6b *** Another classic pitch well worth seeking out. If combined with Digitron gives a brilliant E5 6a. Start just right of the impressive rounded gray rib. Climb the vague pocketed ramp and make a series of blind moves leftwards, BR, to reach a good hold at the base of a tiny groove. Stand up and pull out onto the arete, which is climbed on its right-hand side to a break (junction with Digitron). Step right and surmount the bulge rightwards, BR, move back left onto the slab and a junction with Digitron at its crux.

3. Beta Beware (6c+) * a short intense affair through a difficult series of voerlaps to an easier wall and tree belay.

4. Omegod (6c+) * gain the prominent flake from below and exit it rightwards and over a small overlap onto the wall above. The superb blunt rib above leads to the belay.

5. Alpha Track Etch (7b) ** A very touch pitch with some good climbing throughout. It climbs the front face of the broad rounded buttress with a smattering of bolt runners and plenty of technical climbing. Some Friends/wires may be required before the first BR.

6. Delta Force (6c+) **the right arete of the face gives a brilliant face climb with sustained but reasonable climbing to an intricate and fingery finale on the superb final bulge.

7. Badge E1 5c, 4c A poor route. Start 4m right of Alpha Track Etc. 1. 20m Pass an overhang, PR, to reach a groove and follow this, PR, to reach a scoop and belay. 2. 12m Finish via the scoop, exiting left below a bulge via a wall.

8. Keeping Secrets E5 6c * Begin at a slightly higher level. Good climbing but tough at the crux. From a small tree, stand up and enter a shallow scoop, PR, to reach better holds. Climb the flake on the left pas a thin break, PR, to reach a V-shaped groove. Swing out left to exit via a lichen-flecked wall.

9. Walls Have Ears (7b+) * Start 5m right again. Climb a faint flake and bulge to a good ledge. The finish through the hanging scoop gives a hard sequence with a reachy clip.

10. Scary Fairy E3 5c, 5b Start below an obvious flake further right. 1. 12m Gain the flake by strenuous moves and follow it steeply to a cave belay. 2. 17m Move left to a junction with Keeping Secrets at the V-shaped groove and finish up it.

11. Ten (7c) **A brilliant pitch up the fine wall and impressive large bulge right of Scary Fairy. Straightforward, relatively, to the bulge where the interest begins in a sequence of powerful and demanding moves.

12. When I was a Viking (6b) easy but pleasant lower wall leads to fine climbing above the ledge.

13. Ravenous (6b) easy lower wall to fine upper section via flakes and cracks