Ban Y Gor - Head Sector

This begins immediately above the ‘step up’ and is obvious by its series of daunting three-quarter overhangs. The rather macabre series of route names is proof that a serious accident once happened here, one that was to initiate the complete development of this section of crag after various forays had touched the walls in the early Seventies.

The climbs here are all more problematic than sustained the difficulties clearly based on the overlaps themselves. Brute force more than technicalities are the order of the day with yet more possibilities remaining for the honed climbing athlete.

1. Open Head Surgery (6c+) * Gain the ledge at 8m via a bulge. Move out right to climb a superb rib via a series of fingery moves. A tasty pitch: Rebolted

2. Gimme Back My Head (7a+) ** Even tastier, a short series of power moves direct from the ledge. Rebolted

3. Head Tennis (7c+) * Gain the ledge via a shallow groove. Desperately short and sustained power moves through the overhangs gives the test together with a with glue-on holed Rebolted

4. Stitch That (7b+) ** easier lower wall via shallow groove to a series of powerful but brilliant moves through the overlaps. Best of quartet. Rebolted

The next two routes start from a top an obvious pillar gained via a crack on either side. BB

5. The Drilling Fields (7c+) *** from belay atop pillar, superb roof climb via the right-hand line of bolts. Mean. Rebolted

6. Almost me (7c) *** better still with sustained interest on roof stack to the left. Rebolted

7. Project

8. Hummin’ Bird (7b) ** another excellent route with a straightforward start via a shallow groove and wall to a cave. Fingery moves through the bulges lead to an impressive final move to gain the belay. Rebolted

9. Project

10. Sea-King Me E5 6a * semi trad. route climbing the lower wall, TR, to gain the terrace. The wall above, BR, is bold to reach a ledge and finishing crack. May be bolted in the future.

11. Chin-Hooks (7a) * Newly bolted start leads to the right-hand line of bolts giving a fine section of climbing with fingery moves. Good. Will get a new start soon. Rebolted

12. Heady Days (6b+) *** future classic taking centre of peaked roof stack and gained via the straightforward wall below. Rebolted

13. Head in the Clouds (6c) ** barrel-shaped lower wall, short wall and left side of overhang. Excellent.