An interesting area with a number of easier routes about to be retro-bolted. At the moment the majority of routes here are traditional slabby face climbs with two or three sporty type routes. Head Buttress is bordered on its left by a vegetated corner line the start of route 1.
1. Nod if you Understand E2 5b the vegetated corner line, unclimbable at present.
2. Maestros Wall E4 6b short intense wall above small ledge. New belay added and thread and bolt runner replaced.
3. Yellow Taxi HVS 5b pleasant slim shallow groove line Again unclimbable at present. New belay added.
Poison Poisson (6b) * cleaned pillar and pleasant blunt arete.
4. Fresh Fish E5 6a a bold pitch with a vague groove system. Friend 1.5 useful. Ivy covered. New belay added, cleaned and retrobolted.
5. In Apedex (7b) ** superb line through prominent overlap. Mega-reach crux. Ivy covered. New belay added, cleaned and rebolted.
6. The Motley Crew E3 6a technical twisting groove, awkward through overlap. New belay added, cleaned and retrobolted.
7. Muddy Waters (6a) ** pleasant and worthwhile climbing when clean. REBOLTED AND CLEANED.
8. Slow Boat to Chepstow (6b) * similar to its neighbor with intricate start. REBOLTED AND CLEANED.
9. Up the Garden Path E3 6a appropriate in name in what has come from above and how long it took to weed out. 5BRs and a few nuts and wires. REBOLTED AND CLEANED
10. Cocotte E4 6a * a fine and pleasant upper arete, almost a sports route. REBOLTED AND CLEANED.
|Ban Y Gor|
|Ban Y Gor Access|
|Nine Lives Sector|
|Ban Y Gor Layout|
|Main Crag Layout|
|S Wales Limestone|
|S Wales Sandstone|
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