To the left of Helter Skelter the wall is divided at half-height by a prominent ledge system. From this spring a quartet of very worthwhile sport climb a whilst to the sides lie a series of longer, more traditional routes. This section of cliff also supplies the easiest routes on the main crag.
1. Baggy Trousers (6c+) ** a splendid pitch up the slim pillar. Tough on the upper wall and a complicated finale. RECLEANED AND REBOLTED.
2. The Correct Use of Soap (7a) * difficult move through roof above terrace, 2BRs. The lower wall is straightforward. RECLEANED AND REBOLTED
3. Lux (6b+) * pleasant though difficult past BR above the terrace. RECLEANED AND REBOLTED
4. Object VS 4a, 4b pleasant lower wall and slabby groove. RECLEANED NEW BELAY ADDED
5. Accuracy E3 5c, 5c * boldish slabby wall and (F6b) tower. RECLEANED AND REBOLTED.
6. Another Day HVS 4b, 5a slim upper groove. RECLEANED NEW BELAY ADDED
A straightforward lower pitch leads to a half-height belay and the next three pitches, although they can just about be done in a single pitch.
7. Costners Last Stand (6c+) * short sharp shock squeezed onto vague arete. RECLEANED AND REBOLTED.
8. Boys Dont Cry (6b) * easier via scoop and flake. RECLEANED AND REBOLTED.
9. No Way Out (6b+) * three hard moves in a row. RECLEANED AND REBOLTED.
final three routes take the full height of the crag to the terrace. To descend,
walk left to a large tree and abseil off:
10. To Bee or not To Bee E1 5b thin crack to ledge, overlap via groove, then leftwards across slab. New belay added.
11. In My Hour of Need E1 5b series of shallow grooves and direct up slab TR. New belay added and retrobolted.
Home is Where the Heart Is VS 4c the hideously vegetated groove.
The face now swings down and to the left to provide the final bit of crag.
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