Ban-y-Gor Access

Ban Y Gor	Ban Y Gor Layout	Escarpment Layout	Main Crag Layout
Nine Lives Sector	Mandela Sector	Bronto Buttress	Violation Sector
Genetics Sector	Crawl Buttress	Merthyr Butress	Head Sector
Apedex Sector	Cemetary Sector	Accuracy Sector	Wye Sector

The Terrace

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S Wales Sandstone

S Wales Limestone

Ban-y-Gor

Access and Ownership:
The official ownership of these cliffs is unknown although various people have a claim to parts of the land both above and below the cliff. What is known is that the area is an SSSI and it is imperative that, like the first ascensionists, as low a profile as possible is maintained and litter and noise kept to a minimum.

One other problem springs to mind, that of the proximity of the houses to the upper tier of the main crag. It is for this reason that only the lower tiers have been developed with appropriate lower-off stations being placed. On the odd occasion routes do emerge onto the terrace above the tier and it is requested that climbers go no higher than this. In similar fashion routes have been climbed on the right-hand end of the upper tier but in the interests of common sense these have been omitted and it is requested that climbers do not venture onto them and thus jeopardise the hard work that has gone below.

Approaches:

From the east (Bristol, London) or the west (Cardiff) follow the M4 to the Chepstow junction and turn off here. Follow the A48 through Chepstow, over the river Wye towards Lydney. 2KM after crossing the river bridge
turn left to reach Tutshill and just after the petrol station turn right.
Follow this road through the village of Woodcroft (A4228) and after passing the top of Wintour’s Leap and a sharp right-hand bend take a left back on yourself - Lancaut Road. Park on the grassy area on the left just
after the houses.

Strictly speaking the approach via the field opposite the parking place in Lancaut Road is not officially agreed for access, this lands you, sometimes literally, at the southernmost part of the crag. Alternatively use the no approach via a lower path and right-hand branch, now becoming worn, until just before a small water tank. A small path leads rightwards from here up the steep hill to arrive at Bronto Buttress. The cliff can then be traversed in any direction for the appropriate section of cliff desired.

Although strictly speaking the approach via the field on the opposite side of the parking area is the quickest means of approach to the crag, no right of access has been negotiated with its owner. Although a gate and style have been conveniently provided it is not advised that this method of approach be used since it may jeopardise future climbing at the cliff.

For the correct approach please use the following directions: Walk down the road for 400m until a parking/turning space is evident on the right. Walk down this and the track beyond for 40m, past an old shed and disused tractor until a small water tank, the second of two, is reached. Just before this a vague track leads off to the right and begins to rise up the hillside to land you at Bronto Buttress. From here, walk easily rightwards to Mandela Buttress and Nine Lives Sector (map) or leftwards past the remainder of the Escarpment and onto the Main Crag (map).