Peak District Chee Dale Clwyd Limestone S.Wales Sandstone S.Wales Limestone The Gower Ban-Y-Gor

Sports Climbs UK

Welcome to the web pages of Sportsclimbs UK, a site designed for support to sports-climbing in England and Wales.

For those from further afield it is also intended to provide information to sports-climbing in the Peak and South Wales areas, together with photographs, maps and general crag information to tempt climbers into sampling some of the more 'backwater' cliffs of Britain.

This site is one for information purposes only. The inclusion of a crag or a route on this site does not imply that you have the right to climb there. Descriptions of climbs and sites are recorded for historical purposes only. Great effort has gone into this site to ensure that grades and descriptions are correct, but as always, climbers must use judgment to ensure that difficulties are within their capabilities and accept the consequence of their decision. This site is in no way an attempt to encourage climbers to climb on the cliffs described within.

The publisher of this site in no way accepts any responsibility for any errors it may contain, nor are liable for any injuries or damages arising from its use. Climbing is a dangerous pastime.

Updates

The Retreat (20.6.14) A new bay with a number of short intense pitches and a few longer ones. New Crag at Harpur Hill

Stoney West (20.06.14) another fine 7a pitch added.

Majorca Buttress (added on 17.05.2014) 14 bouldery little routes from 6b to 7a+ in Water Cum Jolly.

Garage Buttress (updated 24.3.14) a number of new routes and cleaning up of existing routes amongst the trad routes. Updated with more pitches.

Harpur Hill: (updated 11.1.2014) completely updated with two relatively new areas and new routes spread all over the crag: The Racetrack: Pool Wall: The Playground. New regearing on The Dark Side Left and The Dark Side Right

Chee Dale (updated 21.8.2013) lots of new routes throughout the dale. Runyon's Corner, Dog's Dinner and The Cornice so far. Plum Buttress now added with new routes and re-gearings.

Twilght Gully Crags:(7.7.2013) seven new routes on the established gully walls as well as a whole new upper tier.

Cawdor Quarry: (updated 9.7.2013) a new find in the Matlock area. Loads of route in the mid 6s through to a few harder offerings. Faces east and gets no sun but only 2 mins from the car. Porn walls regearing and cleaning underway.

Long Tor Quarry Right-Hand: (16.6.2013) a newly developed section of crag with a number of worthwhile and very easily accessible rotues in the grade 6 region.

Craig Arthur (updated 9.9..2012): undoubtedly the finest of the crags in the Llangollen chain. Big and impressive with loads of superb trad. Routes and a small selection of quality sports route. 30 New routes have recently been added since the guide and all of the sports routes re-equipped with new belays etc.

Smalldale: (updated 12.8.12) a superb venue with a varied selection of routes on quarried walls. Originally mostly in the 7s grade but now with a wealth of easiest routes in the low 6s on the Outlying Walls. All have good length but this is not a winter venue - great for a summer evening. All now regeared save for a few on the Crystal Maze Wall.

Ban Y Gor: (updated 28.5.2012) Whole crag completely updated with a number of new routes and regearings.

Crag X (updated 3.4.12) seven new routes added and whole crag recleaned and most routes regeared. Good climbing on excellent quality natural rock.

Helicopter Crag (updated 15.9.2011) a completely new sector to Hall Dale with a number of routes in the lower grades: Skyline Buttress.

Harpur Hill: (updated 5.7.2011) completely updated with two relatively new areas and new routes spread all over the crag: The Racetrack: Pool Wall: The Playground. The Upper Tier has been regeared with new bolt runners and belays. New routes also added.

Compact Walls/Independence Quarry: A whole new set of routes along the Clwyd limestone escarpment, mostly in the lower sports grades with easy access. All new photo topos.

Chee Dale (updated 26.6.2011) lots of new routes throughout the dale. Runyon's Corner, Dog's Dinner and The Cornice so far.

Staden Quarry: (20.6.2010) new walls and loads of new routes the popular Peak traditional venue with loads of excellent face routes on the best quality quarried limestone.

Masson Lees (Updated 4.9.2010) this superb find of 2004 has now reached full maturity and is now completely dry. Give it a try, you know it makes sense.

The Ravine (updated 11.6.11) a relatively small venue with ease of access and a handful of worthwhile routes.

Slaley Brook: (26.5.10) recleaning of some of the longer routes has begun. Three new routes and cleaning of vegetation have improved the Marble Walls.

Pwlldu Bay: (updated 13.5.2010) Newly updated with a plethora of new routes. A truly idyllic setting straight from a magnificent beach. In the shade after midday.

Dinbren:completely updated, a superb quiet venue with a wealth of routes, some sports some trad . New routes from 2010 included.

Cowdale (updated 27.4.2010) completely cleaned up and regeared where necessary with stainless gear. 10 new routes of easier grades from 6a to 6c.

Llanymynech: (updated 13.4.2010) a superb crag near to Oswestry on the Welsh Borders. Long sport routes, some requiring a 70m rope, an excellent collection of classic trad face climbs. New wall Foreigner's Wall and lots of new routes. Another new wall added at the back of the Quarry with a number of lower grade 6 routes: Bay Wall. New Wall added: Cream Wall.

Trevor Rocks Quarry: (updated 22.1.2010) updated with a completely new series of walls, the DM Walls.

Watch House Crag: (14.7.09) a super little slabby venue tucked into the bays to the west of Fox Hole.

Watch House East: (14.7.09) a handful of excellent routes on a steep leaning wall. The perfect compliment to Fox Hole and Watch House crag.

Dinas Rock: (updated 13.7.09) has had a major clean up and most of the routes regeared where necessary. The Roadside Crag has loads of easier grade sport routes and the Main Wall is as good as any face in South Wales. There are also some new routes being added all over the cliff.

Mount Pleasant (updated 6.5.2009) a super little crag on the opposite wide of the valley to the Gap with a number of very good routes. Upper Tier now added.

The Racetrack and Pool Wall (6.10.08) two excellent little faces at Harpur Hill with a number of fine little face climbs all in the lower end of the sports grades.

Taffs Well Main :(updated 9.4.09) as predicted some rebolting and the production of a number of new routes is making this an easy-accessible and popular crag.

Tirpentwys (4.5.2009) another excellent little venue with a number of good quality routes with plenty in the lower sports climbing grade.

Gilwern (18.8.2008) a super new crag on the Head's of the Valley road with superb rock, views and climbing.

Long Tor Quarry: (23.5.2008) the old quarry in Matlock has received a big makeover care of two local climbers and has a number of excellent new routes together with the old ones being tidied up.

Dyfryn (updated 18.10.08) a super new crag on South Wales Sandstone. Topos to be updated shortly.

Blatant Buttress (updated 28.8.09) and Blackwell Halt: (updated 28.8.09) in the case of the former now completely rebolted and a handful of new routes added.

Turkey Dip Rocks (27.7.07) another crag to be recently updated in the bad weather. Steep and very overhanging with a handful of quality hard routes.

Horseshoe Quarry:(updated 3.4.2012) completely updated with new crag drawings and a complete update on 32 new routes since the guides.

The Gap (updated 24.9.07) newly updated with a number of new routes and diagrams.

Devil's Gorge: an impressive hole in the ground containing a classic of North Wales limestone and a number of less frequented slab routes. Condition defendant.

Gary Gibson on the first ascent of 4000, Stoney Middleton. Photo Mick Ryan

Giants (6c), on Plum Buttress in Cheedale.

Mark Richardson on Seventh Time Lucky (7b), Masson Lees. Photo: Ian Milward

Ian Carr on Swain's World, Harpur Hill

If you would like to contribute to my bolt fund with the intention of renewing old fixed gear on many of the crags on my web site please feel free to do so via the Paypal link below

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